Going Green - Wild Camping At Groenrivier

Our driving times have changed since aquiring the Honey Badger and especially since retirement. The journey starts when the key goes into the ignition. No longer do we rush to get to our destination instead we enjoy every moment  of the roadtrip. In doing so we have become more aware of our immediate surroundings and the open road is now part of the destination. I must confess, I do sleep at times, my head dropping to my knees! Our travelling times and distances are now determined by our moods and desires.

 

There’s always an element of excitement knowing we’re going to wild camp, which means we’re off the grid as far as electricity and conveniences are concerned. A purist would say wild camping is when one stops along the way to set up camp in a remote off-grid spot. Nowadays, with the convenience of Apps, data or GPS, even wild camping spots are reviewed on sites like iOverlander. We live in an age of uncertainty and a country where one’s safety can never be guaranteed, making reviewed locations more attractive.

One of my daughter’s school chums’ family hailed from the west coast, and family holidays were always at Groenrivier. Of course, when they went there things were slightly different and much “wilder”.

Twee spoor tracks were the only roads, and families could set up camp wherever they chose. There were no facilities. Cora told us when they went; it would be for at least a month during the summer holidays. They would have to provide all their water for the duration. Food supplies had to be sufficient, a trip to the nearest town impossibly far and inconvenient.

Huge Ford trucks would be sent off to set up the campsite a few days before the families arrived. Diesel generators and huge General Electric gas fridges would be carted there to keep supplies cold.

In those days, fishing, angling and diving for crayfish was the norm, and much of the food was free from the sea. Families would trek up on mass to spend glorious holidays in the dunes and on the beaches.

Now, things have changed, and SanParks run the show, which is lovely because it’s there for all South Africans and visitors to enjoy. We have always been impressed by the excellent work SanParks does in conservation and the management of our parks. We’ve met the loveliest people who manage the gates. Anyone who loves nature and preserving our fauna and flora, our wildlife and the ecology must be an extraordinary breed of human.

We spent three glorious days at Groenrivier. The campsite has a freshwater (slightly brackish) supply, a very clean pit loo in an attractive, large enclosure with a view! Campsites share these facilities. Our neighbours, seasoned campers to Groenrivier, were very organised and had set up a portable gas geyser with a medium-sized Jojo water tank for hot showers, cool drinks and ice!

Butch and I went for early morning cycles, stopping when our phones got a 3G signal to catch up with the kids. We didn’t do too well and relaxed, knowing lousy news travelled fast. We always pack our Yety filled with cold water, often slightly flavoured; our water supplies don’t always meet bottled water standards of excellence, although they are always 100% safe and pure. We have found that a few drops of Low Cal do the trick of disguising the mineral odours.

On one of our trips, we stopped for our picnic at the Groenrivier lighthouse and questioned the relevance of lighthouses in this modern age of satellite communications. I think sailors would have an emotional attachment to lighthouses rather than relying on them solely as one did in the “old” days. The West coast is rumoured to be treacherous. The scene couldn't be further from Pisa if you tried but, we managed a similar photo to those everyone does to the poor old leaning tower!

It is safe to say that we often do nothing. Sitting in my chair with a book, my binoculars, and a camera is a treat I relish, but it does not take too long before I nod off and gently purr the hours away. That’s, after all, what holidays are for.

Campsites are spread out, allowing campers to enjoy their privacy and have a sense of seclusion. I would only be aware of our neighbours at night when I’d see their lights while watching the strobe of the lighthouse before falling asleep. It was a pleasant surprise to have another neighbour knock on our door one evening, asking whether we had any curry spices. Her distraught daughter-in-law had forgotten to pack the spices for their turn, and her son, the cook for the night, was flummoxed, a curry without curry. Mother-in-law and I could save the day, and Butch was gifted a fine bottle of wine for our troubles!

Every evening before lights out, I update our little travel worm; we are making progress. It was time to pack up again, bid Groenrivier goodbye and head further north, and Springbok was our next port of call.

Although spring has sprung, there were still a few vygies and daisies blooming. I found the sparse vegetation in this hot, arid landscape fascinating. Small hardy plants grow and survive in cracks, crevices and shady spots provided by boulders. Keeping one’s nose to the ground can result in pleasant surprises. 

The sunsets were astounding, and the days were lengthening. Clouds provided interesting backgrounds, while foregrounds were painterly.

With our set-up, we could stay at Groenrivier for a month or more and be very content. Remember, your Wild Card can be used for park fees, and if you’re of a particular age, pensioner’s discounts apply at times too!

Reservations can be made on the SanParks website. We were winging it and didn’t have a reservation, but during summer months and when it’s flower season in Namaqualand, I would suggest a booking to prevent disappointment.

Our drive to Springbok always reminds me of a Piet van Heerden or Hugo Naude landscape.