Going Green - Wild Camping At Groenrivier

Our driving times have changed since we acquired the Honey Badger, especially since retirement. The journey starts when we turn the key. We no longer rush to get to our destination; instead, we enjoy every moment of the road trip. In doing so, we have become more aware of our immediate surroundings, and the open road is now part of the destination. I must confess, I sleep with my head dropping to my knees! Our moods and desires now determine when and how far we travel.

There’s always an element of excitement in knowing we’re going to wild camp, which means we’re off the grid for electricity and conveniences. A purist would say wild camping is stopping along the way to set up camp in a remote, off-grid spot. Nowadays, with the convenience of Apps, data or GPS, even wild camping spots are reviewed on sites like iOverlander, helping us choose safe locations. We live in an age of uncertainty, and in a country where one’s safety can never be guaranteed, so reviewed locations are more attractive.

One of my daughter’s school chums’ families hailed from the West Coast, and family holidays were always at Groenrivier. Of course, when they went there, things were slightly different and much “wilder”.

Family trips to Groenrivier in the past required thorough preparation, as there were no facilities. Families had to bring all their water and food for at least a month during summer holidays, since the nearest town was far and inconvenient to reach. Planning ensures a safe and enjoyable wild camping experience, especially in remote areas.

Huge Ford trucks would be sent off to set up the campsite a few days before the families arrived. Diesel generators and huge General Electric gas fridges would be carted there to keep supplies cold.

In those days, fishing, angling, and diving for crayfish were the norm, and much of the food came from the sea. Families would trek up en masse to spend glorious holidays in the dunes and on the beaches.

Now, things have changed, and SanParks run the show, which is reassuring because it ensures safety and good conservation for all visitors and nature lovers.

The campsite has a freshwater (slightly brackish) supply, and well-organized campers can set up hot showers with a portable gas geyser, helping you feel prepared and confident for off-grid adventures.

Butch and I went for early-morning cycles, stopping when our phones got a 3G signal so we could catch up with the kids. We didn’t do too well, so we relaxed, knowing lousy news travelled fast. We always pack our Yety with cold water, often slightly flavoured; our water supplies don’t always meet bottled-water standards, but they are always 100% safe and pure. We have found that a few drops of Low Cal do the trick of disguising the mineral odours.

On one of our trips, we stopped for our picnic at the Groenrivier lighthouse and questioned the relevance of lighthouses in this modern age of satellite communications. I think sailors would have an emotional attachment to lighthouses rather than relying on them solely as one did in the “old” days. The West Coast is rumoured to be treacherous. The scene couldn't be further from Pisa, but we managed a similar photo to the one everyone takes of the poor old leaning tower!

It is safe to say that we often do nothing. Sitting in my chair with a book, my binoculars, and a camera is a treat I relish, but I don't stay awake long before I nod off and gently purr the hours away. That’s what holidays are for, after all.

Campsites are spread out, giving campers privacy and a sense of seclusion. I would only notice our neighbours at night, when I’d see their lights while watching the lighthouse strobe before falling asleep. One evening, another neighbour knocked on our door and asked if we had any curry spices. Her distraught daughter-in-law had forgotten to pack the spices for their turn, and her son, the night's cook, was flummoxed, a curry without curry. Mother-in-law and I could save the day, and Butch was gifted a fine bottle of wine for our troubles!

Every evening before lights out, I update our little travel worm; we are making progress. It was time to pack up again, say goodbye to Groenrivier, and head further north; Springbok was our next port of call.

Although spring has sprung, the vibrant vygies and daisies in this hot, arid landscape evoke wonder and inspire nature lovers to explore further. 

The sunsets were astounding, and the days were lengthening. Clouds provided interesting backgrounds, while foregrounds were painterly.

With our set-up, we could stay at Groenrivier for a month or more and be very content. Remember, you can use your Wild Card for park fees, and if you’re of a particular age, pensioner discounts apply at times too!

Reservations can be made on the SANParks website. We were winging it and didn’t have a reservation, but during the summer months and when it’s flower season in Namaqualand, I would suggest booking ahead to avoid disappointment.

Our drive to Springbok always reminds me of a Piet van Heerden or Hugo Naudé landscape.