In a Singapore Grip

Let's get one thing straight, prohibition sucked and led to all sorts of mischief. Imagine a government that bans chewing gum? The fear of the law was put into me, and I had visions of sniffer dogs discovering my Imodium and Vomifene, so I rushed to my G.P for prescriptions in case I got the chop, no questions asked. I was very apprehensive about our stay in Singapore. I’d been warned to drop a piece of paper, and they would throw the key away. I could hear the click of steel bangles.

Singaporeans are very proud of their island, citing the strong Singapore dollar, a booming economy, law and order, from a squeaky-clean government to cleaner pavements, and a superior Education system. It’s a miracle that more Saffas haven’t left to graze these greener pastures. In S.E.A., having traffic rules obeyed is enough to impress, no jaywalking, no overtaking on the pavement, hardly a sound as vehicles zoom past at a decent speed.   If high-rises are a measure of their economic strength, then they’re off the charts. 

It's Much Ado about nothing! There are cracks in the carefully plastered facade, smokers are grinding their cigarette butts underfoot, commuters and pedestrians are dropping bits of paper and other disposables on the streets and pavements, and what do you know? Citizens are blowing huge bubble gum bubbles at the establishment. But there's the ever-present threat of the wrath of the powers that be, who will come down on you like a high-rise should you be caught! 

With all that said, I did like the look of Singapore, with its old and modern architecture perfectly juxtaposed, its beautiful Marina, Botanical Gardens, tasteful shopping concourses, Cathedrals, Museums, art galleries, war memorials, parks, and recreational spaces. After a hard day's toiling in the corporate banking world, there are myriad places to enjoy sundowners with fabulous views and a skyline that takes your breath away. The stars come out at night, and there’s a galaxy of restaurants and eateries to choose from. Later, I’m sure as the moon draws water, the nightclubs, Karaoke Clubs, and bars will keep the night owls swaying.

Singapore's true colours shine at night; she dazzles with her jewel colours, ruby, emerald, sapphire, twinkling diamonds, and amethyst. Our dinner date started with champagne at the Sofitel rooftop bar, where we caught up with an old friend and made a new friend. As it was ladies’ night, we sipped a flute of Reinert champagne before strolling down to Lau Pa Sat hawker centre. This time our wine came from Cheers, before we had Satays, Prata, and Dim Sum at Satay Street, which becomes Boon Tat by day and closes at 6 pm every evening when the Satay stalls open and everyone dines informally on the street.

After dinner, we wandered around the Marina and gave the Grand Prix track a once-over, giving it our seal of approval. We watched the laser show and walked along the embankment (Sweets lost her 4-year-old Havaianas, who called it a day and left her barefoot) to Boat Quay, where we had an A.B.F. drink at the Prince of Wales Pub. Warning signals were beeping, we needed to recharge our batteries if we were going to make it to the chequered flag on Saturday morning.

The next day, we visited the Fresh food and produce markets, saw homemakers stocking up for the day, Chinatown was dressed up and ready for a festival, and the Indian quarter brought back fond memories. We enjoyed breakfast with the locals and had coffee on the sidewalk.   We were amazed that, amid all this modernity, there's still room for ancient Chinese buildings, Temples, Pagodas, and a Colonial Fire station—the cable car from the city to the highest point, with 180-degree views of this magnificent Island.   From a street vendor, we were treated to the best Ice Cream Sandwiches imaginable.  I was swept up by the drums in a Pagoda and found myself all hips-a-swaying.   After supper that evening, we did a River Cruise, another highlight.  Had a scrumptious dinner at a 5-star restaurant with delightful hosts, Jane and Ken, Singaporeans who enriched our experience of their city.

Unbeknownst to us, we were going to be there on the eve of the Singapore Night Grand Prix, which meant the tempo revved up considerably. Lamborghinis, Porsches, Jaguars, Bentleys, and Rolls-Royces were out to play, and everywhere we went, we saw these fabulous sports cars. Like Peacocks in mating season, strutting their jewelled feathers and wallowing in the attention. We were able to get tickets for the Practice Session on Friday night, the only event we could attend.

We were so enthused once we'd got our tickets. I displayed mine like an Olympic medal; we hit the fast lane to the track, all cylinders firing.   What a spectacle, the sound of 100s of horsepower engines deafening and thrilling.  Once on the stands, we were soon chatting carburettors and pistons like all the other petrolheads.  As the track winds through the city, there are dozens of pop-up restaurants, bars, and social gathering places. The heat and petrol (jet fuel) fumes soon had us looking for a pint, and we joined friends from SA and Canada for a draught.   While most people probably drove all night, we ran out of gas and limped home with flat batteries. 

My knowledge of F1 racing is limited, and I was determined not to mention Peter Revson, Jody Scheckter, Ayrton Senna, or Jackie Stewart!  Fortunately, I know what a Mercedes-Benz logo looks like, so I could identify it, and of course, the Red Bull logo is unmistakable.   I think the Israeli next to me was impressed, although he did disappear without a trace, but then he might be Mossad.  

This was certainly a once-in-a-lifetime experience; I have a better understanding of the adrenaline rush participants in motor sports get, but honestly, I won't be rushing down to our local stock-car track next Saturday to see the boys mucking about in mud.

For Electronic gadget hunters, this town has it all, and in a far more rational, orderly fashion, we tried it in New Delhi, which was chaos personified.   I won't put money on the theory that shopping here is a bargain hunter's dream, unless you really know what you're dealing with.  I think it's the seller's dream come true, as customers are paying what they think is a fair price. The words "Madam, what do you want to pay?" send shivers up my spine and make my hackles rise, often to the occasion!  So bargaining is beeg! 

In Singapore, owning a Designer label, particularly fashion clothes and accessories, is mandatory, and everyone aspires to it, resulting in thousands of knockoffs. But there are beautiful stores, boutiques, and Malls offering these exquisite pieces from Haute Couture to Prêt-à-porter and Bespoke originals for the Savile Row crowd.

We believe we saw and experienced a good slice of life in Singapore, but our real adventure awaited us in Vietnam, starting in Hanoi, and we were ready to jet off early on the Saturday morning.