There's No Sister Like A Koeksister - Thabazimbi To Pongola

The red, gravelly, iron-rich soil of the Limpopo province is where we found ourselves, our reintroduction to South Africa after our extraordinary years exploring our beloved Africa.

Our stop for a few days was at Thaba’Nkwe Bushveld Inn, a unique retreat nestled on a farm. It offered us the opportunity to hike in the hills and along the fence line, immersing ourselves in a distinct landscape that was guaranteed to pique the interest of any nature lover. We found ourselves surrounded by knob-thorn trees, golden grasses and acacia trees in the dead of winter.

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Thabazimbi, a town steeped in history, is home to one of the largest iron ore mines in Africa. The town, at the foot of the Ysterberg and surrounded by the Witfonteinrand and Boshofberg, with the majestic Kransberg in the background, and owes its name to the large iron ore reef discovered in 1919 by J. H. Williams.

This discovery led to the establishment of the mine, which today extracts over two million tonnes of ore annually, hauled by train to Mittal’s iron and steel works.

The railway line from Rustenburg, which reached the area in the 1930s, marked the beginning of full-scale iron and steel production. The town was officially proclaimed in 1953, and Kumba Iron Ore, previously known as Kumba Resources, is now the principal operator of the mine.

The Marakele National Park, about 20 km north-east of the town and in the heart of the Waterberg Mountains, is a sight to behold. Its mountain landscapes, hills, and valleys, along with its diverse wildlife, make it a paradise for nature enthusiasts and a must-visit for any wildlife lover.

Marakele National Park is also home to some of the Tuli elephants that were relocated to the park in a controversial move in 1999. This incident, which involved allegations of animal cruelty, sparked a national debate on wildlife conservation in South Africa, drawing attention to the park’s conservation efforts and the need for ethical wildlife management.

In the post-apartheid era, Thabazimbi gained notoriety in 2003 as the location of Kamp Staaldraad, the Springboks’ infamous training camp before the Rugby World Cup. The camp, renowned for its rigorous training methods and strict disciplinary measures, was the subject of controversy due to the perceived excesses of its training regimen. These excesses led to a near-complete overhaul of the upper administrative levels of the South African Rugby Union, a significant event in the country’s sports history.

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The Koeksister Oomies

The characters one meets in the most unusual places make South Africa an exceptional travel destination. People from the Karoo, the West Coast, and the Cape Province are characterised by a unique sense of humour, colloquial language, and vivid storytelling. The Riel dancers in the Karoo, the fishermen of the West Coast, and the expressive flower sellers on Adderley Street, who are known for their vibrant personalities and engaging sales pitches, are just a few examples of the diverse and fascinating people you can encounter. Their stories and charisma will surely make you feel connected and appreciative of our diverse cultures.

Parked near our campsite, we spotted a small bell tent, a washing line groaning with fresh laundry, and a trestle table stacked with recently washed pots, pans, and baking utensils. These were campers with a love of cooking, but there wasn’t a soul around.

Just before sunset, the throaty sound of a spluttering, powerful V8 engine alerted us to newcomers approaching our campsite.

It was a 1970s grey Ford bakkie, emitting the occasional puff of exhaust fumes as it rattled its way over the gravel, the suspension shot (kaput), causing excessive bouncing over potholes.

Our introduction to our neighbours was the sight of two hairy elbows sticking out of the rolled-down windows of the vintage Ford bakkie (pickup truck). This seemingly mundane detail was a perfect illustration of the down-to-earth, rugged charm that is often associated with the people of Thabazimbi, and it immediately made us feel at home in this unique corner of South Africa.

The two burly men who unfurled themselves from the low-slung front seats straightened themselves to their full six-foot-something height. I doubled back, blinked, and re-focused. Was I seeing double? No, I realised, they were identical twins.

Within minutes, they set to work. What they were doing was still a mystery. Still, we could hear pots and pans clanging, the grating creak of their tailgate opening and a few minutes later, chatter, sprinkled with liberal giggles, echoed across the campsite as they recounted their day.

By nine o’clock, we were in bed with our books and iPads, with only twinkling stars visible as all the lights were switched off and silence descended upon us.

It was only a day or two later that we were able to introduce ourselves to our new neighbours—Eric and Errol Marnitz, also known as the legendary Koeksister Oomies and their Parakeet, or is it a Lovebird? 

These bearded brutes are pâtissiers extraordinaire and the creators of the perfect VEGAN koeksisters.

Every evening, they prepare the koeksister dough, and before sunrise, they’re up, dressed, aprons on, tightly elasticised pony tails smoothed over, and ready to roll out the dough for the day’s batch of 480 koeksisters. Their dedication to their craft is inspiring.

With mathematical precision, batches of dough are rolled out to a specific thickness, and the engineering steel ruler is used to measure the width and length of each portion. The Oomies’ expertise in making koeksisters is impressive, and they insist that only three twists to each plait can make the perfect two-bite koeksister.

Once all the dough has been cut, interlaced, and plated, new oil is heated to thermostatic-approved levels (critical when making confectionery) and batches of raw dough are fried to perfection. Thereafter, small batches of koeksisters are plunged into sweet syrup at room temperature. (I mention room temperature because I believe it is traditional for the syrup to be ice cold. But the Oomies have debunked that theory!)

While Errol deep-fries these golden nuggets, Eric does the packing, wrapping and labelling.

By 9H30, they’re ready to set off in time to sell their mouth-watering titbits as shoppers exit the busiest store in town. 

For our afternoon coffee, we dipped into our packet of koeksisters—Crispy, light, and delectably syrupy. The Koeksister Oomies have perfected a balanced yet not overly indulgent South African favourite.

Their followers on Social Media aren’t wrong when they sing their praises, and who was I to not follow suit? “Bravo, your Koeksisters are sinfully decadent, and we are smitten.” I wrote. Another thumbs up from satisfied customers were the quotes, blessings, signatures, graffiti, and comic strip art written in white ink covering the bakkie like a full-body tattoo.

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Hester Wilhelmina Claassens, in her doctoral thesis Die Geskiedenis van Boerekos 1652-1806 (The History of Traditional Cuisine or farmer’s food), traces the roots of the koeksister to 17th-century Holland, where a popular cake known as ' stroopkoek’ (syrup cake) reigned supreme.

There is also a Cape Malay version of the confectionery, which is a fried ball of dough (similar to a doughnut) rolled in desiccated coconut, called a koesister. The name derives from the Dutch and Afrikaans word “koek”, which generally means a wheat flour confectionery.

Tips for perfect Koeksisters from the pros

Use Cold Butter: Cold butter helps create a flaky texture in the dough.
Maintain Oil Temperature: Keep the oil for frying at a consistent temperature of 350°F (175°C) for even frying.
Dip While Warm: Dip the koeksisters in syrup while they are still warm to ensure they absorb the syrup properly.
Prepare Syrup in Advance: Make the sugar syrup ahead of time and chill.
Avoid Overcrowding: Fry the koeksisters in small batches to prevent them from sticking together, ensuring even frying and preventing the oil from cooling too much.

Errol and Eric are happy to share their foolproof recipe with anyone interested and have permitted me to forward it to my readers. So here goes.

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Koeksister Oomies Famous Recipe

Dough:

Method:

Syrup:

Method:

To make the Koeksisters

1.Knead the dough until it is smooth and has a shiny gloss. (I watched them cutting and plaiting the koeksisters and noticed that they kneaded the dough all the time)

2.Divide the dough into manageable portions.

3.Roll one portion on a floured board to about 1/2cm or as desired.

4.Cut into strips about 2 inches wide by 5 inches long.

5.Divide each strip into three strips, leaving the top centimetre closed.

6.Plait (three times for each strip)

7.Fry in deep hot oil until golden in small batches so that the temperature does not diminish.

8.Dunk into the syrup for as long as the next batch is cooking.

9.Remove the koeksisters using a slotted spoon into a colander or sieve, placed over a bowl, and wait until the excess syrup runs off.

10.Lay out to cool and pack into containers.

11.These koeksisters freeze well, and to defrost, leave them in the refrigerator overnight.

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In their ancient Ford bakkie, these intrepid twins have travelled the length and breadth of South Africa, visiting small villages and towns along the way. They are prone to lingering for a few days to produce their delectable, light, finger-licking good Koeksisters, which they sell at markets or an informal pop-up stall near a busy shopping centre or grocery store.

Butch and I would often recall our few days in their company, observing the respectable way in which they communicated, worked and the passion they brought to each plaited strip of dough.

With quiet humility, thankfulness and delight, these salt-of-the-earth, bearded brothers got up each morning with hope, trusting that they’d sell all their stock, which they did. Their commitment was a testament to the concept of “refirement” during retirement.

They steadfastly live by their motto “In God we trust our lives, safety, health, and well-being. AMEN.” Their faith never wavered; no matter how uncertain their future is, they would tell us.

(In Orania, there's a sculpture honouring the humble Koeksister, I was told. Google managed to trace it for me!)

Credit for this photograph goes to the photographer.

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My phone was pinging off the hook one fine afternoon. It was my talented photographer, digital creator and design friend Hilde. They were in the vicinity, testing out their new motorhome and, if it suited, would love to catch up with us, she said. Of course, we were eager to meet up and couldn’t wait to see them.

We were completing circles, Butch and I realised. Hilde and Leon were among the last friends we saw before leaving South Africa.

With a willow basket groaning with treats, Hilde arrived. I think she realised that something sweet would help the sudden shock of being back subside. We spent a glorious afternoon around our camping table, recounting our adventures and listening to their plans for retirement.

It was with a pang of sadness that we waved them off the next morning after coffee and rusks, but we were all too aware that they were in a state of excitement to hit the road, and while we were feeling a tad lost, we couldn’t hold them back. Their adventures await.

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It was no use procrastinating, Butch told me one morning, we needed to get back on the road.

 

Fortunately, we were planning to visit a favourite niece and nephew in Johannesburg, which saved the day. What’s more, as a pacifier, we had koeksisters in our freezer.

 

With an Overlander, one is always on maintenance duty, and this time we would have the Honey Badger’s tyres, rims, and wheels serviced, along with any necessary repairs.

 

In Johannesburg, spring was in the air, and as the days lengthened and became sunnier, gardens were slowly coming into bloom, displaying their full colours. It was good to see the family again, spend time with them, see their Grandbaby, and catch up on their lives, which had also undergone major transformations while we were away.

Lorraine was getting impatient with us; her family reunion slash 80th birthday bash was around the corner, she told Butch. Nephews, nieces, children, and grandchildren were flying in from all over the world. We needed to get to Pongola pronto. She couldn’t wait to see her brother. I could see Butch was chomping at the bit, too, and so we fired up the Honey Badger as soon as our wheels were aligned!

 

Our shortest route would be through Eswatini (also known as Swaziland). I’d never been in this part of the world, and that was a good enough reason to up sticks and set off.

Hein’s Farm resort was that night’s stopover. It was a freezing highveld night in Ermelo. We were not accustomed to the cold, and seeing Butch, his head in a beanie, was a sight. I would have to dive into my winter clobber for bed socks and an extra blanket that night. 

How I longed for those windless, balmy sunny days along the Kenyan coast.

My passport was filling up with entry and exit stamps, and I couldn’t be happier about that.

As Hilde always reminds me, “See the beauty in the small things.” Yes, you’re quite right about that, Hilde. I can add that I always appreciate small moments and small encounters. It only takes a drop of water and a ray of sunlight (refraction and reflection) to form a rainbow, lighting up and adding colour to a cloudy day.

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This blog is a tribute to the memory of Errol Marnitz, who passed away unexpectedly, one week after our departure.