A Leaning Tower And A Pisa Pizza

Since the Arno has silted up and cut the city off from the sea, Pisa has become slightly off-kilter and a little seedy, though that’s only my opinion, of course. The decline of this once-powerful naval city is evident, and I wonder how popular it would be if it didn't boast such magnificent architecture, art, and atmosphere. 

Of course, the attraction is immense; how could one not stop to take a peek? We did, and I must confess, we were not disappointed. That tower leans, as do most of the buildings on the Campo dei Miracoli, because of shallow foundations and the sandy subsoil. But the Torre Pendente, or Leaning Tower, is the highlight. It is simply amazing and makes you appreciate Italy's rich architectural history.

Sunrise is the best time to visit; the light is good, and the tours only start a little later. That’s when the crowds pour in, washing down from all directions like a flood, up narrow alleys, streets and boulevards. People watching is one of my favourite pastimes; watching the crowds posing and juxtaposing, pushing that poor tower, was priceless, and I couldn’t resist a few street photographs. Visiting early makes the experience more relaxed and memorable, so plan accordingly.

Last Friday, we arrived home only to discover that a petty thief had vandalised our property, stealing every copper tap, pipe, fitting, screw, and wire. The ambush was brutal, with fittings ripped from the walls. Water gushed from a multitude of holes; our garden was soaked, and our precious water ran into every crack and hole, seeping away unabated—such a waste. We felt shocked, sad, and disappointed, sharing a sense of loss that many travellers can relate to when away from home.

Once we’d composed ourselves, we shut off the water and settled down. Our conversation returned to Pisa and our surprise at finding copper piping still in use there; we marvelled at these ancient relics, all in perfect working order. History is preserved with pride and cherished for future generations to enjoy and learn from. These countries were not immune to wars, invasions, or foreign occupations. Still, they embraced art, architecture, writing, laws, and customs to advance themselves, integrating new ideas with the old. We had the privilege of enjoying all this, and so will future generations.

Our accommodation, the Hotel Touring, is situated just a stone’s throw from the railway station; it's a gem for its location. It’s just a few blocks from all the points of interest, and our dinner recommendation was a 30-minute walk away. Well away from the crowds, in the “suburbs”, a family-style eatery very popular with locals.

I must mention the tiny lift; I think it must surely be the smallest lift in the world. It fits only two guests without luggage, or one passenger with one suitcase. The shower was just as small; there was no room for cats to swing in there. We were forgiving, as we realised the bathroom was a new addition to an old building.

Breakfast was a comedy of errors. The charming chap who served us when we booked in was on duty again, once again very helpful, friendly and willing. Still, his co-worker (she might have been the manager) was rude, sullen, unwilling to help, obnoxious and very unpleasant, throwing china around, flinging cutlery onto the table and causing everyone indigestion. We swallowed our breakfast and hotfooted it out of the line of fire.

We only had one night in Pisa, but we saw and did as much as we could. This was our first taste of Italy, and I recorded even the smallest details. We walked, talked, and enjoyed the people, the food, and the Italian bonhomie. We couldn’t wait to set off for our next destination, Cinque Terre. Boarding the train was an exciting part of our adventure, as we could enjoy the countryside and villages without the stress of driving ourselves. A Pisa cake!