Taking Up An Invitation - The Marmalade Colours Of Linyanti - Namibia

By now, you all know that our heads have turned, and our vagabond days are winding down. We have committed to attending a very important person’s 80th birthday celebration and family reunion in Natal, which will likely be our swansong to our African adventures and, of course, the best way to reintroduce ourselves to family and friends.

Fortunately, we do have a few weeks to relocate to South Africa, and we’re determined to make the most of these idyllic days as nomads. Our days are chock-full of the thrill of the open road, the beauty of the African landscape, and the joy of discovering new places and cultures.

Our journey has been enriched by the countless people we’ve met whose friendship, guidance, and hospitality we’ll always treasure. In the spirit of reciprocity, we’ve extended invitations to several friends to visit us when they reach the Western Cape.

Butch and I extend our sincere invitations, and we believe that one day we’ll receive a call to say, “We’re here, open up!” Just as we eagerly accept invitations extended to us, we eagerly await the day when our friends will grace our doorstep.

Time was on our side; we were in the Linyanti area (a two-day drive and some 5 sleepovers en route), but most importantly, promises made are promises kept, and with that, we decided to visit Hentie van Heerden, a professional hunter on this concession in the Linyanti.

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Our drive from the Epupa Falls proceeded without incident, and soon, the distance between towns began to increase.

Opuwo was a bustling town with a collection of modern stores, but in keeping with tradition, brisk, colourful, informal trading still took place on pavements.

We noticed that there were fewer traditional Himba on the street and more Herero.

The Herero people are the most culturally recognisable ethnic group in Namibia. Herero women are renowned for their vibrant and colourful ankle-length dresses, Ohorokova, high necklines, tight bodices, and long, puffed sleeves.

It is not unusual to see African ladies wearing colourful headdresses, and the Herero ladies have a particularly interesting headdress that is commonly worn.

If we weren’t on this tighter-than-tight schedule, I might’ve been tempted to stop for a TLC at Tickles Beauty Bar; the thought tickled my fancy for a while, but then I thought better of it as I had a flashback to the horrendous pummeling I endured in Ho Chi Minh City -  Vietnam,  by the time the penny dropped. I realised I was not the usual client treated by the therapist; my back and neck were in a spasm.

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As the sun began its descent, we found ourselves back in familiar territory, setting up our campsite at Samanya River Lodge in Mpungu.

Our neighbours Chris and Terry, whom we’d met at Camp Cornie, were there, and our new neighbours, Pillip and Liezel, in their state-of-the-art truck, the Goliat Overlander, came over to invite us to join them for sundowners overlooking the river. Phillip is the founder and administrator of the very vibrant and active group, SA Overlander Truck, on WhatsApp.

Butch and I have become so accustomed to our solitary life that our sacred spaces are well defined now, we can in our tiny 10²m find enough space to be “alone” but, it is always such a treat to spend time with the likeminded folk we meet along the way.

Within a few minutes, we’re sharing stories, admitting to our failures, and when needed, our advice is encyclopaedic and is liberally shared.

We returned to our respective campsites when the lights came on, and the sun plunged below the horizon. Soon, our fires were crackling as each couple prepared their evening meal.

The next morning, Butch and I set off to Rundu for some last-minute shopping, 

And that’s when I spotted this beauty in a fabric emporium—a snow-white wedding dress fashioned from meringue-like layers of ruched satin and golden threads. How could I resist a photograph?

Once we’d completed all our errands, we were off to Mukwe and the White Sands Lodge on the Kavango River, right there overlooking the Popa Falls at Divundu.

We spent three glorious nights there, enjoying the facilities, where I was able to catch up on my writing while listening to the gentle rumble of the river as water cascaded over smooth rocks and rushed over little falls and rapids.

On our bikes, we explored the area and rode right up to the gates of the Bwabwata National Park. On this occasion, all we spotted was a herd of cattle crossing the road.

Exploring our immediate surroundings takes the pressure off trying to keep up with all the Joneses, who are off on game drives, boat trips, or dipping in and out of the pool while hippos wallow and snort a few feet away in the shallows.

We both did a double-take when we registered the CEM-registered vehicle parked alongside our campsite. Someone from Hermanus! Could it be?

We hadn’t seen a vehicle from the Western Cape in two and a half years. We were getting too close to home, I feared, yet it was awesome meeting the delightful retirees and swallows who summer in Hermanus and then migrate home to Germany when the vineyards turn yellow. This year, they made an exception, as they had told us, and decided to visit these parts, and they couldn’t be happier.

These are the people after my own heart. Adventurers who have ploughed through much of Africa in their cosy Land Cruiser made for two.

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After all the excitement, we needed a break and decided to spend a few nights on the Kwando River in the Mudumu National Park.

One of Namibia’s least-known parks, Mudumu, is richly rewarding for adventurous visitors. The main attraction is the riverine habitat of the Kwando River, while inland is the Mudumu Mulapo fossilised river course and the dense mopane woodland.

There is no formal entrance gate or park fence - the park is separated from neighbouring communal farmland by a graded cutline.

Mudumu is home to a large elephant population. The park acts as a corridor for these pachyderms as they migrate between Botswana, Zambia, Angola and Zimbabwe.

Kwando River floodplain, grasslands, and woodlands dominate this flat landscape.

Vegetation: Tree and Shrub Savannah Biome. Vegetation type: North-eastern Kalahari Woodlands, Riverine Woodlands and Islands, Caprivi Mopane Woodland and Caprivi Floodplains. Mopane (Colophospermum mopane), leadwood (Combretum imberbe) and mangosteen (Garcinia livingstonii) trees.

Wildlife: Elephant, Buffalo, Lion, Leopard, Spotted Hyaena, Cheetah, African Wild dog, Hippo, Crocodile, Spotted-necked otter, Sitatunga, Red lechwe, Common Impala, Burchell’s Zebra, Sable Antelope, Eland, Wildebeest and Giraffe.

Tigerfish and Tilapia are common fish species.

The 430 bird species recorded in Mudumu include African Fish-Eagle, African Skimmer and Western-banded Snake-Eagle.

This was not our first visit to the park, so we decided to do as little as possible and enjoy our surroundings. We went for a walk, did some bird-watching, and enjoyed game viewing from our hammocks or camping chairs.

We enjoyed every sunset, slept late every morning, had our coffees listening to the hippos complaining and hoped we'd see something wild happen within earshot. Every morning Butch would venture out to do a recce sniffing out footprints and clawprints. Camping at Nakatwa Camp is sublime, but tourists can also stay at one of two privately managed lodges within the park, offering luxurious accommodations.

Our neighbours were a group of avid birders who had their binoculars fixed on the trees and water, and their conversations were only focused on bird names and locations.

There are no Spaza shops or fancy restaurants; visitors must bring all their supplies, including water and fuel, to the park.

I love these occasions, it’s when I open my store cupboards to see what’s lurking at the back of a drawer or shelf. This time, we enjoyed a batch of Vetkoek filled with traditional Cape Malay Curried Mince, and for dessert, cheese and honey. Sublime. The afternoon was spent in my hammock, dreamily dipping into Herman Wouk’s The Winds of War, a second-hand bookstore find, or just looking skyward at the tops of the trees.

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Linyanti

The Linyanti is sandwiched between the Okavango Delta to the south and west and the Chobe National Park to the East.

The Linyanti is a vast area dominated by woodland and two water systems. The northern frontier of the concession is formed by the mighty Linyanti River, which also forms the border between Botswana and Namibia.

It is important to note that traditional, rural, thatched and wood rondavel structures characterise local architecture. A few of these tiny homes comprise a commune that is meticulously swept and kept in pristine condition (to allow critters, snakes, and other wildlife to be seen), and I was very impressed by the perfectly manicured wood and reed walls. Painstaking work to ensure precision is the hallmark of the pride taken in the construction and maintenance of these buildings.

Deeper into the concession lies the Savute Channel, an ancient, unpredictable, and slightly mysterious watercourse that flows from the Linyanti to the Savuti marshes in the Chobe National Park.

The northern section of the concession features beautiful open floodplains and lovely riverine forests, while thicker mopane forests dominate the south.

The area is famous for the immense herds of elephants which congregate at the water’s edge in the dry season.

The bush telegraph was abuzz with news of the arriving buffalo herds and Zebra herds.

This was the ideal time for us to visit, as the dry season offers the best game viewing in this area, with excellent predator sightings – including lions, leopards, and even wild dogs.

The Kwando River flows from Angola into Botswana and, like the Okavango River, dissipates over the sand of the Kalahari Desert. This overspill of water forms the Linyanti Swamps, and during a major flood, the swamps expand to form a delta, characterised by papyrus- and reed-lined waterways and lagoons. Once these seasonal rivers dry up, fishermen leave their makoros there; they're sure to be right there when the waters return in November.

We would only see the burnt remnants of these papyrus and reed waterways, where now herds of buffalo were crossing.

A faultline drains the Linyanti Swamps into the Linyanti River, which ultimately flows into the Chobe River.

The Savute channel runs through the centre of the concession, west to east.

The Linyanti River is a permanent watercourse that serves as a magnet for the wildlife of northern Botswana and a destination for migration from the dry northern areas. 

We saw how challenging it is to spot game in the extensive mopane woodland regions. Game activities will focus on the open areas of floodplains and riverine forests.

Animals – In terms of fauna, the lion is common, along with the spotted hyena. Leopards are often found in the larger trees of the riverine forest. Antelopes such as kudu, impala, reedbuck and steenbok will be found all year round. The area is a stronghold of waterbuck; these are found in a few other places. Giraffes are stalwarts here, as are warthogs and baboons. Wild dogs traverse the area and are most commonly seen in July and August in the Linyanti.

Large herds of wildebeest, zebras, elephants, and buffalo can now be seen in the Linyanti. Smaller mammals include the side-striped jackal, the bat-eared fox, the serval and the aardwolf.

Birds – Birdlife includes carmine bee-eaters, which have learned to follow game-drive vehicles to feed on the insects that fly up to avoid the wheels, a colourful spectacle for the passengers. Raptors in the area include martial eagles, fish eagles, and bateleurs. Black and slaty egrets, wattled cranes and African skimmers are found here.

Plantlife – The open floodplain areas are home to russet bushwillows and Kalahari star-apples, and the riparian forest of the riverbanks hosts leadwood, raintree, knobthorn, and sycamore figs, to name a few. Mopane and Kalahari apple-leaf are found further from the river.

Access –No self-drivers are allowed into this private concession, and guests fly in to the airstrip near King’s Pool or to a strip between Savuti Camp and DumaTau.

Best months: The Game will be drawn to the water of the Linyanti River in the dry months from June to November, but will dissipate to drier areas during the wet season. 

Birdlife is at its peak in the rainy season when migrants appear decked in their breeding plumage.

While we visited Hentie, he was hosting a guest who permitted us to join them on two game drives. We were very fortunate to do so, as guests have exclusive rights to this private camp and its facilities.

Our time spent in the camp and our game drives exceeded my expectations, and they were extraordinary, remaining one of the trip’s highlights.

Thank you for allowing us to join you on your escapades, Hentie. Butch and I thoroughly enjoyed our time with you and wish you and your team every success in the future. Even the puncture was a thrill, as this time, the boot was on the other foot, and these tiny misfortunes happen to the pros, too.

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Dear Hentie,

It would be amiss of me not to thank you personally for the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity you gave us to visit you at your exclusive hunting camp in the Linyanti concession area.

We truly appreciate that you saw your way clear to host us while you had a client staying with you. I know this was a special privilege bestowed on us.

Our tent was a luxury. Imagine, after many months in our Honey Badger, slipping into bed and luxuriating in crisp white linens, wrapping ourselves in thick cotton towels after a heavenly shower. One appreciates these extravagances and pleasures after a time in a truck.

Our meals were top-notch, compliments to the lovely chefs. The company at your table was delightful, entertaining, and very informative, enabling me to write about the landscape, animals, fauna, and flora with confidence.

Your trackers were charming and indulged me every time I spotted a Buffalo, zebra, or Kudu hiding in the thick foliage of the forest, complimenting me on my fine spotter’s eye. They certainly know how to make a complete novice feel like an expert!

I hope you’ve had a successful season, with returning clients making reservations a year in advance!

With much appreciation, admiration and a book of enchanting memories, we thank you.

Butch and Maricha.