Every Picture Tells A Story

November 6, 2017 Posted in Review / Travel

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. No matter how many beautiful photographs of Cinque Terre I’ve seen, nothing beats being there in person. Like any great beauty, there is more to her than meets the eye. This place has soul, history and charm. Being a World Heritage Site doesn't happen at the drop of a hat; there are criteria to meet. Cinque Terre has them all. I hope my stories help you feel the same wonder I did.

Being on a budget makes you explore options with an open mind. It’s easy to click on an accommodation website, pick the cream of the crop, and pay exorbitant prices; we, on the other hand, had to look for great stays at reasonable prices. A 9.8 rating on a shoestring! Airbnb had the best options; what’s more, we stayed in La Spezia, a nearby city, which let us reach Cinque Terre by ferry and avoid the crowds. I loved how La Spezia felt like a peaceful retreat, a perfect spot to unwind after busy days of exploring.

La Spezia, a naval city on the Ligurian coast, is the gateway to Cinque Terre, the five irresistible Italian villages famous on social media and photography websites. Narrow cobbled lanes, lined with houses painted in bright Mediterranean colours, are best explored by ferry or train. I suggest checking ferry schedules and ticket prices in advance to avoid last-minute surprises and ensure a smooth, enjoyable trip between the villages.

Small vineyards, stone-fruit orchards and citrus trees form a patchwork of colour between rustic homes and hamlets as we hiked from village to village after a scrumptious lunch of Parma ham, musk melon and my first pizza in Italy. (I fib; it was probably my second pizza in Italy, but they're so amazing; each time I had a slice, it felt like my first!) Vibrant colour, quaint architecture, mist, mountains, narrow streets, trains, tunnels and cobblestones all felt like a Wes Anderson movie set. Locals waltzing down the street in Speedos, carrying fishing rods, and pretty young things posing like fashion models had me gawking. I was in heaven.

I love boats. Seasickness prevents me from being overly enthusiastic about sailing, fishing or setting out crayfish pots, but admiring them at a distance or when they’re safely moored is my favourite. Whether they’re small, colourful fishing boats or large, mysterious black Super Yachts. I conjure up stories about the humble fisherman out to meet his match, and in wonderment I speculate about what the owner of the billion-dollar baby does. Must be dotcom Billionaires with tax havens, and I’m sure there must be the odd sprinkling of dodgy dealing too.

We took a stroll down to the waterfront to admire it. We weren’t disappointed. By then, the Maritime Museum had closed. As the sun set, yachtsmen unfurled their spinnakers for a quick sundowner cruise, while others moored, and beautiful people came ashore to enjoy meals and tapas at one of the many quayside restaurants and bars. The next morning, I photographed a large frigate from the water.

My admiration for places always includes the people who live in or visit them. They make up the colourful palette of characters who breathe life into a place. In Italy, it’s the passion of shopkeepers, pedestrians, blue-collar workers, and holidaymakers that gives the country its robust, passionate, chaotic flavour. Their energy and stories made my experience truly memorable.

Musicians or buskers play their favourite tunes on street corners or in the shade of an ancient tree. The saxophonist’s plaintive, slightly nasal tone encouraged me to step it up as The Lady Is A Tramp wafted down to me on a gentle breeze while I hiked between lemon and fig trees.

Although the day was slightly overcast, I think it played out in our favour: not too hot, yet a little sultry, perfect for hiking in the hills behind the villages. It was also perfect for photography, as shadows were eliminated and colours were marvellously saturated, revealing their true brilliance. The sea was a luminous aquamarine, almost postcard perfect.

At the halfway mark, I bought a glass of delicious, freshly squeezed, ice-cold lemonade from an old man with a long white beard. If you're like me, you'll know why he's irresistible; I can't resist a good sniff of fruit, especially citrus. He had set up all his paraphernalia on a rock, the electrical cord snaking down the hillside from his villa further up. I could still hear the saxophone as I enjoyed my drink. This is bliss.

Once we’d all gathered again and had our daily dose of gelato, we made our way back to the jetty to await the ferryman. With slightly sunburnt cheeks and salty hair, I was happy to return to our very comfortable apartment in La Spezia. A hot shower would do the trick before we set off for supper at the world-renowned All'Inferno DAL 1905 restaurant.

Set in a cavern halfway below street level, this place dates back to 1905. With low ceilings, no windows and a slightly crowded atmosphere, it didn’t take long before I developed heart palpitations and sweaty palms, and I knew I had to move before the panic set in. Claustrophobia is a bitch. Fortunately, I wasn’t the first to suffer there, and the kindly waiter moved us to a table at the door; the cool evening breeze washed over me as I started breathing normally again. Nothing would dampen our spirits or our appetites as we enjoyed one delicious course after another in this atmospheric restaurant whose walls, if they could talk, would have a thousand tales to tell. Just imagine, from Mussolini to Lorenzo Richelmy (the actor best known for his role in Marco Polo on Netflix).

Our mission to this neck of the woods was to visit Cinque Terre. My view: although breathtakingly beautiful, I do think it’s been spoilt by all the publicity and the crowds who, like us, flock there in droves all year round. I’m sure the villagers, although they must enjoy the financial benefits of fame, must rue the day it saw the end of village life as they knew it. I’m pleased we decided to spend our time in La Spezia, a quiet city on the fringe, where locals still enjoy an unspoilt lifestyle away from the maddening crowds and where one can still enjoy la dolce vita.

We’d acclimatised and were ready to hit the road in our hire car, heading to Tuscany for village life, long walks, good food, excellent Chianti, and lots more gelato.

ACCOMMODATION (Airbnb- just download the App)
Cernaunavolta - an apartment in the old town, near the station and harbour (ferry), eateries, fresh fruit/ vegetable market
Hosted by Enrico - who is brilliant, friendly, helpful and available at all times
Address: Piazza Guiseppe Garibaldi, 24, La Spezia, Liguria 19121.

The apartment is self contained allowing guests to prepare their own meals. Laundry can be done while there. Comfortably sleeps 2 couples. The large, modern bathroom is well equipped with an excellent shower and ample hot water.