Find relief in Citta della Pieve

We often ask:  “How would you like to live here?” Sometimes it’s very tempting, but then I remember our mountains, the sea, my ordinary, predictable, yet incredibly happy life, my friends and family, and I can’t imagine living anywhere else but in our Sleepy Hollow, surrounded by vineyards, oak trees and fynbos.  That was until I set foot in the medieval Umbrian town of Città della Pieve.

I could live there.  Built on top of a hill overlooking the valley below, surrounded by strong fortified walls. Horseback riders still canter up from their farms into the village every morning to set the record straight with friends over a strong Espresso and Grappa. Their hooves beat clip-clop on the ancient, cobbled stones, echoing around the walls; like clockwork, it gets homemakers up, flinging the shutters open onto the square; here, the horse still has the right of way.  These timeless rituals appeal to me.

Famous for its brickmaking, the area is rich in clay but, with no stone readily available, the uniform, elegant architecture was often plastered and shaped to look like stone, which was considered more elegant and noble.

Imagine living in a small, safe, serene village with a scenic view where nothing much has changed for centuries.  Days would be routine: up in the morning, coffee in the square, lunch at the local with friends; shopkeepers know your taste buds and stock exactly what you need. With a basket, I’d walk down to the market and buy the freshest produce each morning before returning to our Renaissance-style palazzi, situated on one of the narrow streets or alleyways, to garden, read and prepare delicious meals!  

I'll have to scoot around on a Vespa when I go out into the countryside to do some photography. It was a battle trying to negotiate the hire car through the narrow alleys and streets; poor Queenie was a wreck and vowed never to be traumatised like that again!

The façade might look insignificant, with a large, carved, heavy oak door and a worn wrought-iron knocker, but once inside, brick walls enclosing the small galleria with a wisteria vine, sweet-smelling potted herbs, art, shabby-chic garden furnishings, and a fountain would offer us a cool respite.  I know the ship has sailed on the age-old tradition of Italian men pinching bottoms (so un-PC in this modern climate), but I think I could get along with the builders.

I'd also string my colourful laundry out for the world to see, flaunt my family colours from the flag post and have a plaque with our name on it!  Red geraniums, basil, and chives would sit in pots at the front door. 

My morning walks would take me to one of the many favourite churches, where I'd sit and contemplate, admiring the dedication, patience, skill, and love each artist and artisan poured into creating the beautiful murals on walls and vaulted ceilings.  Then I would light candles for my aging parents, my children, grandchildren, family and friends.

At lunchtime, we would sip local wines and tuck into a bowl of Ragu di Cinghiale – Wild Boar Stew on a cold, overcast day.  The Ragu, infused with Rosemary, Bay leaves, and Juniper berries, was slow-cooked for hours in red wine and served on the freshest homemade pasta.  I drool.

I'd have a cat and spend lazy afternoons on a daybed overlooking the magnificent views, admiring the Etruscan reliefs while listening to my favourite opera.  After a long siesta, we'd dress up and stroll out to enjoy the many festivals throughout the seasons, when citizens take genuine pride in their city. Who knows, I might even take up a paintbrush at a studio with other students!

This is known as the Perugino Trail. Still, the real joy of Città Della Pieve is in wandering leisurely around the narrow side streets and trying to find Italy’s narrowest passageway, the famous Via Della Baciadonna, narrow enough to kiss the love of your life in the opposite window by just leaning out of yours!

I lost my heart to this little-known, untouristy town, with its many galleries, interesting shops, excellent eateries, and ancient architecture drenched in history. Those who do come are looking for the frescoes. Città Della Pieve houses wonderful works by the famous Renaissance painter Pietro Vannucci, known as Il Perugino (The Perugian) to the people of Florence and Rome.

I was dreaming all this up while we did our adventure road trip along country roads sprinkled with bright red Iceland poppies in bloom, a stark reminder that seven decades ago this peaceful landscape was ravaged by war.  We loved our farm stay in Castiglione Del Lago. Having just turned 60, I count myself lucky!