In Etosha We Slosha In Galosha
A distant rumble, a short, sharp whip crack, the skies light up while the heavens become darker, heavier. The smell of rain rolls over the dry, cracked earth. Every animal becomes aware and focuses on the storm as it gathers momentum. Stifling heat cools down. We’ve arrived in Etosha—the place where, millions of years ago, an immense lake dried up. One of the oldest national parks, it must surely be. It will always be on everyone’s bucket list.
With staggering numbers: 114 mammal species, 380 bird species, 110 reptile species, 16 amphibian species, and 1 fish species. Here, size counts; it’s a matter of survival. Grazing and water are limited, so wildlife spreads out to minimize their burden on the environment. But here we saw the herds, large, especially after the rains when the grasses and trees sprouted new leaves. Spring had arrived!
We saw a stripe of zebras with their heads down, braving the elements as the heavens opened and the rain poured. On a day we drove north to see a parade of elephants; bulls, bachelors, mothers with calves splashing and cooling down in the cool, fresh waters. For hours we sat just marvelling at these enormous beasts gently teaching their young how to bathe.
Etosha is the home of the majestic Gemsbok, Namibia’s national animal. We saw them on the pans and on the horizon at sunset. A beautiful leopard sat waiting for us one evening after we’d seen a pair of lions and three cheetahs feasting on a kill. We saw a magnificent bat-eared fox and a dashing Honey Badger, too quick to photograph.
Namibia Wildlife Resorts manages the rest camps. Of the three major camps, we stayed in Halali. Our two-bedroom bungalow was comfortable. Here, the delightful housekeeper insisted on doing everything; I didn’t lift a finger while she had her eye on me. Our beds were made with clean linen every day. I felt thoroughly spoilt each time I wrapped up in a fresh, white towel after my shower. But it didn’t come without a price! I had to answer my beloved’s cries of frustration when he couldn’t build his fire or barbecue our supper to his satisfaction. The construction of the fireplace was badly planned; the chimney was either too short or too long; he couldn’t position his grill, and so the lament went. He went on bended knee and grilled our supper on the brick paving.
The kitchen was inadequate; besides the kettle, we had no other means of cooking anything. There were no utensils besides a mismatched set of crockery and cutlery. We were horrified but realised that, in this way, guests are “encouraged” (read: “forced”) to have all meals in the restaurant, as a teaser breakfast is included in the accommodation fee. We tried the restaurant at lunchtime once, but the service was non-existent, and we left in a huff after 20 minutes. As Precious said, “We can’t complain about the service because there is none”.
Everyone loves to shop, and I particularly love browsing in the camp curio shops; there’s always something to take home. A gold mine, one would think, especially if you’re hundreds of miles from the nearest store. Not so at Halali. Fridges and shelves were bare, with a few well-spaced bottles of brandy or whiskey and a handful of tinned goods. In the heat, tourists flocked there for refreshments; you would be lucky to find one bottle of sparkling water—what a shame. The staff were uninterested, and occasionally we were told that stock was in a storeroom and that the likelihood of someone fetching the goods was nil.
It saddened us to see this lack of enthusiasm and general lethargy among staff at this once-vibrant, well-run camp. Tourists aren’t blind, and the power of word of mouth will surely be felt in the not-too-distant future, or is Etosha’s reputation so amazing that tourists will just put up with bad service delivery indefinitely? I can’t imagine they will. Management should read guest comments in the visitors’ book, pages of complaints which are seemingly ignored. There was a note written months ago on our inventory list about the missing coffee table and two patio chairs, which are still unattended. When will the apathy spill over to the rest of the park’s management?
It’s a shame. Etosha will not escape criticism; it’s time to take note and take stock.
“Earth provides enough to satisfy every man's needs, but not every man's greed.”- Mahatma Gandhi.
A little book recommendation:
Alan Levine’s Serendipity Of Collective Nouns – Creatures Big & Small – The world’s largest and most comprehensive list of wildlife terms. Developed, compiled, and designed by Alan Levine. Illustrations by Bruce Backhouse.
For every book sold, a percentage is donated to Penreach Literacy Programme.
Email: [email protected]
“Here is your country. Cherish these natural wonders, cherish the natural resources, cherish the history and romance as a sacred heritage, for your children and your children's children. Do not let selfish men or greedy interests skin your country of its beauty, its riches or its romance.”
― Theodore Roosevelt
NAMIBIA WILDLIFE RESORTS
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