Sailing away – Ahoy there Mwanza - Lake Victoria – Tanzania

My mother taught me that my gut instinct is reliable, primaeval and an unfailing confirmation of my conscience, especially when something doesn’t sit well with me. “No matter the situation, never doubt that intuitive niggling little voice”, she warned. For a while now, my gut has been in constant rebellion.

Therefore, I'm taking a personal stand today regardless of the consequences. I'm overwhelmed, and I've reached a point where I can no longer tolerate offensive negativity, constant bullying and the politicians and commentators who exploit the ghastly "let's make America great again" to spread seeds of discontent, anger, poisonous vitriol, and division for personal gain or recognition.

“The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing.” Edmund Burke.

Leo Tolstoy said, “Wrong does not cease to be wrong because the majority share in it.”

As Richard Poplak says, “What the arch morons at AfriForum/Solidarity don’t seem to understand, as they lovingly slather their tongues across the leather boots of their Maga Fuhrers, is that they’re nothing more than tiny cogs in the distraction machine. They begged to be treated as victims, and now they’re officially considered as such. Mazel tov!”

Unlike an ostrich, I will not put my head in the sand; instead, I’ll board a ship and sail full steam into an African sunset on Lake Victoria, Tanzania.

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It's hard to believe, but I'm about to embark on my first ship voyage. The ship, named The New Victoria, is a passenger and cargo vessel that plies the waters of Lake Victoria. I've been on ferry trips, a boat trip from Robben Island in a diesel-chugging-fume-expelling tub, and a few sundowner cruises on various vessels. But a ship? That's a whole new level. You see, I suffer from acute seasickness, and the mere thought of a cruise sends shivers down my spine. I can't shake the image of being in a cramped cabin, a mere six inches from the ceiling, with waves of nausea and claustrophobia crashing over me like a tsunami. But despite these fears, I'm filled with anticipation for this new adventure, the new experience, a feeling that I hope will resonate with you, my fellow travel enthusiasts.  

We took a scenic drive to Mwanza, a city nestled on the shores of Lake Victoria. The journey was slow, allowing us to soak in the beauty of the Tanzanian countryside. Though at times potholed and congested, the road added a sense of adventure to our trip. It was pedal to the metal, but the anticipation of our destination kept us going.

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Mwanza City, affectionately known as Rock City by the locals, is a port city and the capital of the Mwanza Region on the southern shore of Lake Victoria in northwestern Tanzania. Its charm, reminiscent of Italian towns like Riomaggiore, Manarola, and Vernazza, is a sight. Cottages hugging the mountainside with breathtaking views of Lake Victoria, narrow winding lanes, and the natural beauty of the hills clothed in a forest green cloth make it a must-visit for any traveller. 

Mwanza City is Tanzania’s second-largest city after Dar es Salaam. It’s also the second-largest city in the Lake Victoria basin after Kampala - Uganda, and Kisumu - Kenya. Mwanza City is the fifth-largest city after Dar es Salaam, Nairobi, Mombasa, and Kampala and slightly bigger than Kigali in Rwanda.

Fishing is the main industry along the shores of Lake Victoria, and five fish processing plants are located here.

Nile Perch were introduced to the lake and are not indigenous. They are now exported worldwide in large quantities. The consequences of the Nile perch industry are the subject of the Academy Award documentary “Darwin’s Nightmare” (2004). 

Darwin’s Nightmare deals with the devastating environmental and social effects of the fishing industry around Lake Victoria in Tanzania.

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The city's outskirts are built on higher ground, and small brick and timber homes are nestled, some precariously, between large granite rocks scattered haphazardly like marbles dribbled from the creator's palm. This unique landscape, coupled with the vibrant local culture, rich in traditions and customs, such as traditional dance at the Bujora Cultural Centre and the historical artefacts at the Sukuma Museum, makes Mwanza a destination that promises a truly immersive experience.

Tropical trees, shrubs, and plants colour the landscape with lush, shaded green foliage. Mwanza's natural beauty, with its rolling hills and the shimmering waters of Lake Victoria, is truly captivating. Although not as brightly painted, the modest scene did remind me of Cinque Terre on the Italian coast.

High-rise buildings, banks, corporate headquarters, hotels, and tourist destinations have been built near the lakeside. Downtown Mwanza was a bustling hive of activity, but we stayed at the quieter Mwanza Yacht Club, situated in a calm bay off Bismarck Road.

Bismarck Rock is the symbol of Mwanza. Located on the shores of Lake Victoria, the rock is named after the German chancellor (1871-1890) Otto von Bismarck, who is still mentioned in the history books, when the city was founded in the colonial period of "German East Africa."

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From our location, the sunsets were nothing short of breathtaking. They bathed the cityscape in an exquisite apricot light that danced on the windows of buildings across the water. The ship anchored in the harbour called to us, offering an irresistible opportunity to embark on an adventure aboard the passenger and cargo vessel The New Victoria.  We couldn’t miss out on this chance to explore!

Bordering the lake around us grows and thrives an invasive perennial aquatic plant, native to South America, called a Water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes (Pontederiaceae)) commonly known as  Nile lily (English); waterhiasint; Nyllelie; snotterbel (Afrikaans); amazibo (isiZulu)

that floats freely or is anchored in shallow water. It typically stands at 10-20cm but can reach 1m under the right conditions to form a dense cover. Its dark, shiny green leaves form rosettes, each with a distinctive, swollen, bladder-like petiole. The plant produces pale violet or blue flowers in flowered spikes.

This plant invades dams, lakes, and slow-moving rivers, spreading vigorously through runners and seeds and forming dense carpets covering the water’s surface. This alters the water's chemistry and composition and threatens other organisms, highlighting the urgent need for understanding and management.

During our travels, I learned a valuable lesson: Seizing opportunities as soon as they present themselves is crucial. The receptionist suggested I contact Mary Kalikawe, a local travel agent, on WhatsApp. I messaged her our request for a passage to Bukoba.

The Ferry leaves Mwanza for Bukoba via Kemondo Bay on alternate days – Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday—and returns from Bukoba on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, with a departure time of 9 p.m.

Arrival time at end ports is between 6 and 8 a.m., depending on how long the ferry docked at Kemondo Bay for cargo. Mary immediately gave us all the details, costs, and banking details, and this was the deal breaker: Mary would see to it that our tickets were delivered to us within the hour.

With our first-class cabin reserved and the tickets safely in my hands, we eagerly explored Mwanza, stocking up on groceries, banking and buying airtime. Afterwards, we could do our laundry, visit nearby restaurants, and enjoy a delicious takeaway dinner from the Club’s restaurant, Mo & Pragz Kitchen. We could, as Butch suggested just enjoy our surroundings. 

Our mantra is “When we’re at the coast (sea or lake), we enjoy fish, and when we’re inland, we’re carnivores.” Butch was adamant we would find the best restaurant serving Bream or Nile Perch. Luck was on our side.

The restaurant at the Hotel Tilapia was within walking distance. It was frequented by locals and tourists alike and had a very good reputation.

With our glad rags on, we waded through the sodden field around us. During the summer, torrential rain floods the coastline, and our campsite was so waterlogged we could be ankle-deep in the mire within three paces.

The Hotel Tilapia’s courtyard was a treasure trove, housing a Rolls Royce Silver Cloud 1958, a delightful turquoise SAAB, and an old Ford, the white-walled tyres cracked with age. Each car was not just a machine but a part of my life, evoking memories of my childhood when my mother would drive us to school in her gunmetal SAAB, the same model and vintage. The Rolls Royce was a distant dream, as my Grandmama would playfully say, “Oh no, my dear, the Beatles drive in them!” when we asked her why she didn’t drive a Rolls. But her 'baby blue 'Mini Clubman’ was a different story. She would zip around Somerset West in it, her eyes sparkling with joy.

The artwork displayed on walls and strategically placed in the garden captivated us. The ingenious use of nuts, bolts, screws, and various metal odds and ends were upcycled to create striking sculptures. These impressive creations weigh a ton and guarantee to catch the eye. Whether or not one appreciates them, they are a talking point that inspires curiosity and admiration.

This quote, painted on a wall, speaks volumes: “Advice from a Lake: Be clear, Make positive ripples, Look beneath the surface, Shore up friendships, Take time to reflect, and Be Full of Life.”

Butch enjoyed his Fried Tilapia, and I loved my Banana Split. The recommendation to try the Chicken Wrap was spot on.

We have come to accept the hour’s preparation time for our meals, and while we wait, I often explore while Butch catches up on his social media posts, especially when we have access to free Wi-Fi. That’s when we claim to do our admin!

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The sunset at 18h44 was golden, and the glorious rainbow was the perfect sign for us to proceed to our ship, the recently upgraded New Victoria, which sails across Lake Victoria between Bukoba and Mwanza.

We loaded our backpacks into the waiting taxi excitedly. As soon as the boot clicked shut and we’d buckled up, the driver accelerated, eager to showcase the breathtaking scenery. The magnificent sunset, the iconic smooth, sculptured Mwanza granite rocks, and the bustling harbour scene unfolded before us, creating a picturesque prelude to our journey.

The New Victoria, built in Tanzania and floated in 2019, is a modern ship testament to the country's engineering excellence. It can carry 1,200 passengers, 400 tonnes of cargo, 20 small cars, and three trucks, making it a versatile and efficient vessel.

The bustle on the quayside recalled a century past when stevedores carried out backbreaking work to load the orders.

From Mwanza, construction materials, tons of steel rods, and even groceries were shipped.

We were ordered to remain seated on a bench, where we monitored the progress on the quay. We were permitted to board the ship and escorted to our cabin an hour later.

While we waited for the send-off, motorbikes, tuk-tuks, buses, and trucks continued arriving, carrying passengers, freight, and fresh produce. Already exhausted from hours of backbreaking work, Deckhands loaded the produce onto the deck and finally covered it with tarpaulin.

Two hours after our planned departure time, the anchors were aweigh, the thick ropes were loosened, the big diesel combustion engines were fired up, and the pistons were set to work. Communications between the bridge and the anchor team, suitably dressed in protective gear, were established, and the officer on the bridge commanded the anchor team to lift the anchor by engaging the windlass to heave the anchor home while controlling the chain tension.  

Slow speed ahead was applied to reduce the strain on the windlass. Slow as she goes, the New Victoria reversed out of the dock, and the massive ship turned while we took in final views of the harbour and brightly lit-up fishing and commercial vessels and set sail into a starlit night.

This called for a drink. Butch and I made our way to the Serengeti Bar to quench our thirst.

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At 8h30 sharp, we docked in the Bukoba harbour after a very uneventful night on board. Butch and I slept like babies as the engines doef-doeffed a monotonous drumbeat, with gentle slapping waves on the bow, as the vessel hummed through the waters of Lake Victoria, lulled us into a dreamless sleep.

On my inspections, I was comforted by the ship's safety measures; I had gone to check on the lifeboats! Plus, we were always within swimming reach of the coast, further reassuring me. I didn’t sleep with my safety vest on, but it was at arm's reach if I ever needed it!

Bukoba Harbour is a work in progress, and once again, longshoremen got to work unloading the precious cargo.

Mary, the travel consultant, had arranged for our guide, Jackson, to meet us. After brief introductions, we set off to explore the city on foot.

No one can start the day without a cuppa, and our first rendezvous was at a coffee shop for an excellent Tanzanian brew. We spent a good hour refilling our mugs with copious cups of coffee while Jackson told us about his beloved city.

Bukoba is the second-largest port on Lake Victoria. The town has a population of 150,000 and is situated northwest of Tanzania on the southwestern shores of Lake Victoria. It is the capital of the Kagera region.

The city is already well-connected with Bukoba Airport, regular ferry connections to and from Mwanza, and roads to Uganda’s Rakai District. The upcoming standard gauge railway to Uganda is a promising addition to this network, sparking optimism and excitement about the city's future development. Bukoba is a leading district in Tanzania, with a high percentage of people with middle-class incomes.

Bukoba's unique geographical location—only 1 degree south of the Equator—adds to its allure and natural beauty.

We couldn’t resist taking short breaks to enjoy the interesting street food, various restaurants, and pop-up eateries.

We stocked up on fresh fruit, bananas and pineapples available along the road. That would be our supper and breakfast.

Bukoba enjoys a comfortable upland tropical monsoon climate, which explains the massive stormwater drains we saw. Temperatures range between 18°C and 20°C throughout the year, and this mildness, due to the altitude, ensures a pleasant climate. Evenings during the two rainy seasons may see a slight drop in temperatures, but we were assured they never reach the extremes we experience during our winters in the Cape. (Mary has just confirmed this in a recent WhatsApp message.)

We joined other pedestrians and returned to our ship at six o'clock, our minds still buzzing with the day's excitement. 

Just as the sun dipped into the lake a cloud of midges, unlike anything I had ever experienced, descended upon us, darkening the sky; no matter how much we tried, we couldn't fend them off. We could only shield our faces, trying to escape their persistent buzzing. Where there’s water or moisture, I suppose there will be insects. Strangely, this attack only lasted a few minutes, and then they were gone.

Although Jackson would’ve preferred to accompany us back to the ship, we assured him we’d be fine. He lived out of town, and we no longer liked holding him up.

Thank you, Jackson, for being a great guide. Our understanding of Bukoba would not have been the same without you.  We made it back to our ship in time to witness all the action around her.

At the harbour, dockworkers frantically loaded tons of freight onto the ship. The loading of green bananas was fascinating, and I was captivated by the care taken to ensure that every banana was protected and would reach distant shores unharmed. How they did it remains a mystery to me.

This time Butch and I marched up the gangplank to our cabin without waiting to be escorted. While the loading was taking place, we made ourselves comfortable in the lounge, where Butch rewarded himself with a Konyagi.

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Konyagi is the East African equivalent of moonshine and is distilled using cane sugar. It was first distilled in 1970.

Debates may continue about whether Konyagi is a gin or a vodka, but one thing is sure: it's a unique spirit. Locals may call it a Gin, but it's more akin to our Wit blitz. What we know for a fact is that it packs a punch at 35% ABV.

According to Butch, Konyagi has a bitter-sweet, floral, earthy flavour with a dash of vanilla. It's a unique taste best experienced when mixed with Stoney Tangawezi, Coke, Sprite, or Tonic.

After indulging in Konyagi, one reviewer shared his experience. “It almost seizes your brain and holds it in a moment of stillness. The sensation is peculiar, yet undeniably enjoyable.”-Mr. Jones. 

At 21h24, when I snapped my last photograph, the ship had yet to sail. Butch and I returned to our cabin. We were both ready for bunks, books and a movie after a long day on our feet.

The following morning, we saw the sunrise over Nyamagana, a few nautical miles from Mwanza.

Rainy, inclement weather awaited us in Mwanza. We were both ready for some dry, sunny days, so we decided to move south as soon as possible to our destination, the Hotel Tabora. 

Our final journey in Mwanza was spent cocooned in a bright pink tuk-tuk—a fitting send-off or arrival after a splendid first voyage.

My anger at world politics has abated, and I hope to resume being a nice pacifist again. However, I doubt it because the people I photograph on these pages are the gentle people who are being moved like pawns on a chess board.

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