The Weakest Link Takes A Hike

History tells us that contemplation, meditation, soul-searching, and philosophising often take place on mountaintops. Jesus, Mohammed, Moses, Mandela and Gandhi did it. I had a close call, a wake-up call, a bruised ego, a sore bottom, and a chipped toenail.

Last week, I embarked on a memorable hike into the Vogelgat Nature Reserve in Hermanus, where I experienced breathtaking views and personal challenges that I want to share with fellow outdoor enthusiasts.

Our guide, Billy, a knowledgeable member of the exclusive Vogelgat Nature Reserve, made the two-night reservation. His expertise made the hike feel safe and well-organized, which reassured us throughout the journey.

Much to my annoyance, we’d hardly negotiated our first incline before I took a tumble, scraping and bruising my knees. My backpack ricocheted off the back of my head, almost knocking me out cold. This wasn’t at all what I’d expected, especially as I was in the company of two very fit, young and energetic “kids”, one being my own. The other, a novice at hiking in the African hills; a petite girl who would prefer glamping in the Everglades.

Coming down to Earth was a shock, but what ensued was even more surprising. In a heartbeat, roles were reversed. My rucksack was smartly whipped off my back, and I was scrutinised and found wanting in every department. The verdict: my bag was too heavy, my shoes were worn out, my laces were too long, and, to add insult to injury, a lecture was handed down re: my fitness and what I had to do to remedy it!

With a hangdog look and my tail between my legs, I realized how challenging hikes can foster resilience and bonding, especially when I was reminded that a group is only as good as its weakest link. 

Regular stops to admire the views and listen to Billy's birding tips made me realize how rewarding it is to explore local trails like Vogelgat-something I highly recommend to fellow nature lovers.

Streams, waterfalls and rock pools are dotted all along the path. The path builders thoughtfully placed cups in strategic locations, ensuring thirsty hikers had access to fresh, cool spring water. When offered her first cup of water, our Emily sipped with reservation, but she’s a super trooper, and soon enjoyed the freshest water, as nature intended it to be.

We were fortunate to see very few critters, and Billy saved us from staring into the eyes of a snake in time. Klipspringers are found in the mountains, but we only spotted their spoor, and I believe I missed the Cape mountain leopard's footprints too! Probably had my nose to the ground or my eyes on my lens. Emily saw a dassie.

The Cape floral kingdom is one of the most diverse, and Billy enthusiastically identified many of the fynbos species for us. It always amazes me to see how much the landscape changes and how varied the flora is; sometimes we’d walk through grassy plains and then suddenly through dense fynbos. Fires destroyed much of the mountain a few years ago, but recent growth was sprouting profusely.

The new wooden cabin SIP comfortably sleeps 6 guests. The appliances are basic but adequate, and the crockery and cutlery sufficient. Fortunately, guests left a few leftovers, and we could light the gas burner (we'd forgotten the matches). After supper, we enjoyed a few hands of Rummy, read our books, and chatted about the exciting day we’d had.

The Swedish-style pool is constantly fed clean spring water, and we all enjoyed a dip in the cool, refreshing water. The “shower” looked inviting and added a romantic touch. Forest nymphs could bathe under the stars, surrounded by ferns and cool green plants. We had no takers, though. The new moon was just a sliver, and we could see the constellations through Billy’s knowledgeable eyes.

We were all weary after a busy day and retired early. I remembered my book, so, with the headlamp on, I read a while, listening not so much to the night owls as to the gentle purring of my fellow companions.

All had a late lie-in, and we set off well after sunrise to be met by a group of jolly walkers coming in the opposite direction. Our short walk took us to the top of Maanschynskop, the highest point. (900m above sea level.) Breakfast was a leisurely affair at Moon Refuge; a stone shack built on the Leopard Trail.

The second night at SIP was great; we’d all got over our phobias, having removed the spider on the ceiling and the huge rain spider in the privy. Like a shot, I was out of my sleeping bag and skedaddling over to Emily’s bed as soon as the field mouse made himself comfortable under my bed. He turned out to be a sneaky little critter and did a vanishing act before we could shove him outside.

On Friday morning, we packed up and made certain to leave the hut in a better condition than we found it. All our backpacks were lighter, and the going down to civilisation was over before long.

Emily, our Canadian visitor, was a rock star. She took the entire ordeal in stride; in fact, she became so comfortable that I found her digging for crystals, taking selfies, and even detouring to the “honeymoon” shack for a “quickie”! She was eager to learn and then surprised herself when she took up the binoculars to do a spot of birdwatching. I admire her most for staying composed after she’d seen the tail-end of a snake. She bravely stood her ground and only had a “moment” when the coast was clear. Well done, Emily, you’re a Saffa in the making.  We're so proud of you!

We celebrated our safe return to Hermanus with a brunch at the ever-popular Betty Blue Bistro, where we all enjoyed a large jar of freshly pressed juice, a wholesome Banting breakfast and an excellent Rooibos Cuppachino. My hamburger, wrapped in two large black mushrooms, was delicious, and I couldn’t imagine eating it any other way. The Almond Banting Pancake looked light and certainly something I’ll try next time I’m there. Celia and Ryno, you are Maestros. The restaurant has a cool, fresh atmosphere, just like the menu. I’ve had numerous meals there and have never been disappointed. I think you’ve succeeded in convincing Emily that a Banting option can be scrumptious.

Nothing beats a good cheesecake, and that’s what we found just around the corner at CanD’s Kitchen. A gem, not only does it have a reputation for serving THE best cheesecake, but service is with a smile, and all the morsels on display looked delectable. Small, cosy and affordable. We could even take our slices home!

It’s my third day off the mountain, and still my legs feel like sausages forced into small casings. They ache; I’m sure I tore every muscle. I took Emily’s comment, “If she can do it, I can,” in my stride, although I must confess I was slightly miffed! I must concede I’m not the girl I used to be, galloping across the Tsitsikamma forests 18 years ago. Something will have to change; I’ll have to step on it in the spinning class and up my gears, but not today. Unlike the great prophets, I didn’t return with new insights; still the same old me! But I did bond with my gorgeous boy and get to know Emily better; I couldn’t wish for more. Warning to little brother: don’t get any ideas, Doodles. I brought you into the world, and I can take you out. So no more mollycoddling. Although this was not my Everest moment, it was not my Helderberg either!

My list of must-haves is: a good hiking backpack, good comfortable hiking boots, good socks, sunglasses, hat, bug cream, walking sticks, headlamps, facial wipes, dental floss, tissues, comfortable sleeping bag, travel neck support, lightweight hiking towel, light-weight all-weather jacket and a good lip gloss (a girl has her standards).

Our menu for two meals: choice of two sausages, boerewors and a delicious, curried sausage, portioned, courgette spaghetti and ratatouille salad. Day 2. Chicken breasts, roast vegetables, feta and black olive salad with a basil pesto dressing, coleslaw. Wine in a disposable box. Foodstuffs packed in a small cooler with freezer blocks—strict portioning.

Snacks included: droewors (sausage-like jerky), biltong, nuts, energy bars, sugar-free sweeties, fruit bars, nutty bars… we certainly over-loaded on healthy foodstuffs.

BILLY comes highly recommended as an excellent guide with various walking or hiking options in the Hermanus area. Billy’s knowledge is second to none, and he can tell a good yarn too. Billy often guides for Walker Bay Tours and Fynbos Trails.

Billy’s Contact: +27 72 926 3612

BETTY BLUE BISTRO: