Camping in St Helena Bay And Beyond

November 7, 2022 Posted in Travel / The Honey Badger Diaries

The drive along the scenic dirt road maintained by Spoor Net is a highlight; we always choose this route for its beauty, even when works temporarily reroute us to the tar road.

Paternoster is a must-visit for its charming, timeless vibe; the crayfish hawkers and children selling wire hearts remind you that some places feel frozen in time, despite the changes.

When I asked, they’d sold out of bread but referred me to a nearby shop. I didn’t leave empty-handed; who can resist a bar of homemade lavender soap? I have mine in my lingerie hatch. The fresh scent of lavender reminds me of my Ouma, who believed moths and mozzies didn't like it. I bought the last ciabatta at the bakery on our way out, which, it seems, bakes for everyone anyway!

We couldn't leave without a bite to eat at one of the many eateries; it was almost noon. We didn’t feel like anything fancy, and a quick bite was all we needed. A stoep with a view would do nicely, and a restaurant with a pizza oven would be perfect during load-shedding. Blikkie Pizzeria ticked all the boxes. We left with a doggy bag for sundowners later.

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Our destination was the Midwest Caravan Park in St Helena’s Bay. Call me sentimental, but I love a small fishing village with a distinctive fisherman’s charm, and I always find it on a drive through St Helena’s Bay. The Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama discovered the bay in 1497. St Helena’s Bay, known locally as ‘Die Agterbaai’, is one of the world’s premier fishing centres.

It comprises 18 small Bays with intriguing names such as ‘Hannasbaai’ and ‘Vioolbaai’. It also incorporates the neighbouring towns of Stompneusbaai and Britannia Bay.

The small caravan park is spotless and well-managed, with the owner personally overseeing many chores, ensuring a tidy and welcoming environment for visitors.

Due to its popularity, we couldn’t secure a campsite for the duration of our stay and had to move every day. We decided to stay for two nights—our minimum. One needs at least one full day to explore a new place.

We secured the prime position on our first night, right on the boundary, facing the tranquil waters of the ocean, lapping gently against the rocks. We enjoyed sundowners under a pink sky, surrounded by Manatoka trees that shielded us from the sea breeze.

The following day, we packed up and quickly moved to our new site. I settled in, then went for a long cycle along the coastline, where one gated complex adjoins the next. Not my scene at all, and too cookie-cutter for me.

Back at the campsite, we gathered our books, hats and chairs to enjoy a perfect day on the beach with a glass of something cool and a platter of sarnies and slices of crispy apple. At three o’clock, the wind picked up, which suited us. We were ready for an early supper and bed. Besides, the dreaded load-shedding would resume at six, and everyone had to shower before the geysers ran cold. Mothers with toddlers, teenagers with dates on the cards, and littlies with sandy bottoms and feet all rushed to find a slot before lights out.

If you’re interested and near St Helena’s Bay, we highly recommend this campsite. It’s impeccable, small, and very well managed.

On our way out of town, we stopped at the Patrysberg butchery for their delicious sosaties, sausage, and a few loin chops, plus a little bag of chilli bites, sliced biltong, and four sticks of droeë wors. This was, after all, the place for lamb, and I can recommend this butcher for delicious meat.

We love dirt roads and avoid busy main roads. Hugging the coast along the Sishen railway line, we drove up to Lambert’s Bay for lunch. The drive is delightful, the landscape picturesque, and the seaside town is good for a surf or a refuel.

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Our mission was to have lunch and find a campsite for the night. The Lambert’s Bay campsite didn’t appeal to me at all. Just the razor-wire security fence surrounding the campsite sent shivers down my spine. The surroundings were dry and unkempt, with not a blade of green grass. And not welcoming at all. We would move on.

Lunch was our next priority, and Isabella’s, the restaurant in the harbour, was the obvious choice. Off we went. We might have time to visit the gannet colony, but unfortunately it’s closed for renovations.

My goodness, Isabella’s has undergone a makeover like no other. Under new ownership and management, the restaurant has been revamped, we believe, during Covid. The space has been opened up, and seating has increased by far.

Open, light, and with views of the harbour from every seat. We were suitably impressed. The menu has changed, with new dishes featured. We would try the crayfish soup for starters and, once again, fish and chips for mains. My fish, Yellow Tail, would be served with an apricot compote, which I thought was excellent. Even the language has changed, and Butch, I seem to recall, would stick to Cob.

The plates were pretty. Clean, with no chopped parsley sprinkled around to disguise the droplets on the plate. The garden salad was crunchy and fresh, a generous portion, and the chips were hot, salty, and crispy. Alas, my fish was dry, even drier than a yellowtail should be, and I think the apricot compote was lost in translation and might be a glaze. The adage “never change a good recipe” came to mind. As for the crayfish soup, Butch said, “Well, at least I could taste crayfish.” I thought it was nice too. When I’m in Lambert’s Bay next, I’ll be back for fish and chips.

We stayed in Strandfontein for a few nights.

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Saint Helena Bay is a major fishing town. It is home to Sandy Point Harbour – one of two ports on the West Coast of South Africa (the other is in Laaiplek). In winter, it hosts many fishing activities, with snoek found in its waters, along with an endangered species of rock lobster and crayfish.