Catching Kate In Vermaaklikheid

July 12, 2016 Posted in Travel

Bad news spreads like a rash. The world is upside down. Our own Juju is giving away his secret recipe and weight loss plan. The UK is in a shambles after Brexit. In the US, there’s a possibility that a megalomaniac with a Hitleresque attitude and a permanent bad hair day might become the next president. We’re not on Noah’s ark, that’s for sure; we’re just rudderless and sinking into despair. Fear, uncertainty, and insecurity are the breeding ground for hate, mistrust and anger. If this life was a magic carpet ride, we’re going to run out of steam. I think even the prophets are speechless.

Nevertheless, we decided to get out and do a bit of exploring to lift our spirits; we needed a distraction from the chaos. A drive along a dirt road going nowhere slowly seemed perfect. We found ourselves in a place near the sea, where sheep graze in the fynbos and life moves at the slow rhythm of a meandering river flowing to the sea, offering a peaceful escape.

Lunch was a sandwich under the trees in Swellendam. Then we hit the dirt road to Vermaaklikheid. (Vermaaklikheid means entertainment). A tiny hamlet just a few kilometres from Witsand, nestled among the dunes hugging the Duiwenhoks River. Just 3.5 hours’ drive from Cape Town en route to Riversdale. This area is known as Hessequa.

The clock stood still here a few decades ago. Small thatched Old Cape Homesteads and labourer’s cottages dot the dirt road to the river. The area is a fynbos scrubland with a temperate climate. More than 100 bird species can be seen here.

Smallholdings line the dirt road where subsistence farmers garden, harvesting fruit, olives, and grapes from their small orchards and vineyards. The few remaining anglers now deliver most of their catch to the local fish factory. Shepherds tend small herds of goat, sheep, cattle and the odd pink pig.

A collection of interesting characters calls this home. The busy postmistress, tucked away behind bars, has stories to tell. Her husband, who makes a “world famous” brew, is on the cusp of fame when the “Americans” sign his honey contract. Sharing his hooch tasting made us feel part of the local life and community.

I was gifted a lovely handmade black straw hat at a BIETSIE LOCAL, a shop that sells 'n bietsie van alles'-a bit of everything- from antiques to local crafts. Every piece of furniture, chipped cup, or enamel plate has a story, immersing visitors in the area's history. Owner Tracey Telford, a mother of two, left city life behind to settle in Sleepy Hollow, living in their bright pink tree house above the shop, surrounded by collected bric-à-brac that transforms the shabby into chic. The nettle tea I bought is so bitter I felt nauseous, but some say that’s a sign of a good local remedy. We loved her homemade choc-free chocolate, adding a sweet touch to our visit.

The last time I saw Puntjie I was on foot, having hiked along the beach; this time we crawled over the dunes through acres of fynbos to get there. Idyllic, I’d say. I’m sure a keen angler would harvest plenty from the sea: black mussels, oysters, calamari and a drought of fish.

After our walks, we’d return to our cottage and unwind. Read, cook, chat, and snooze while enjoying peaceful moments. We moved our chairs along the walls, soaking in the last warm rays of the day, feeling completely at ease with simple pleasures and good company.

After our walks, we returned to our cottage to relax. We read, cooked, chatted, and snoozed, enjoying the simple pleasures. Our guide, Kyle, a teacher at the local 'private' school, took us on a quiet paddle upstream with his mother-in-law, the principal. They work tirelessly to inspire the local children to enjoy school, and it seems their efforts are paying off. Kyle knows the river well, and next time we visit, we hope to enjoy one of his fish dinners. We missed having a local restaurant experience, but we’re sure there are fantastic cooks in this neck of the woods waiting to be discovered.

Unfortunately, we had to leave well before the mist lifted in the valley on Monday morning. Vermaaklikheid lived up to its name by entertaining us. We certainly were. This would be our last weekend before our friends’ return to summer climes in Europe. We enjoyed spending the final hours with you. Thank you for a summer filled with sunshine. We await your return in August; I believe the Namaqualand will be in full bloom to welcome you back.