Exploring Van Rhynsdorp and Garies - Unlocking The Door To Spring -

Posted in Travel / The Honey Badger Diaries



Exploring Van Rhynsdorp and Garies -  Unlocking The Door To Spring -

Maskam Guest Farm and Klipkraal Campsite. Day two of our blooming bonanza road trip began bright and breezy. We needed to get off the N7, the busy main artery from Cape Town to Namibia. Blooms, still closed, were arousing our appetites.

Flowering is a stop-start affair. But to do that, we needed to get onto a dirt road. My point-and-shoot drive-by shots are not satisfactory. The thought of missing wondrous photo opportunities riles me. My excuses for stopping had run out. Butch didn’t for one moment believe my bladder could act up so much.

Our intended overnight stop was at Maskam Guest Farm, at the foot of the Maskam and Gifberg mountains on the Knersvlakte. Kners means 'to grind or slog'. 

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Oprah Winfrey says, “Everyone has a story.” That’s true. At Maskam Guest Farm, the Van der Westhuizens have a story too. The owner, Awie, a local lad, went to the big school in Van Rhynsdorp, then to university, where he studied and later qualified as a CA. His journey from the corporate world back to his roots highlights the area's rich personal stories, inviting readers to feel inspired by local resilience and community.

It was when I spotted a dishevelled man, with a colourful poncho flung around his shoulders, coming in from the blustery cold, where he’d prepared our Curried Tripe and trotters, that I understood and agreed with their decision. He belongs here. This is where they’re grounded.

There are two leisurely routes to follow on the farm through fields of orange daisies with their golden hearts. Visiting during [peak bloom months, e.g., August to September] ensures the best flower displays. Be prepared for challenging terrain and extreme weather conditions, and pack accordingly for a memorable experience.

My lens had to zoom in to identify the many plant species growing on short stems, including the hardy little fynbos, pygmy-stemmed Namaqua daisies and Felicia tenella, to name a few.

We spent three hours wallowing in the flowers before returning to the main homestead, Koekoemakranka Kombuis restaurant, and Ancarene’s carrot cake. The guest farm offers self-catering cottages but no camping facilities. We were fortunate to stay overnight, thanks to our self-sufficient set-up and Butch’s friendly phone call, which secured our spot.

Two, no, four of my favourite local Namaqua dishes were served for supper: Bobotie and slow-cooked curried tripe, accompanied by cinnamon-sugared pumpkin fritters and a salad. A baked sago pudding with fluffy meringue peaks and custard followed. Oh, I was floating on a blissful cloud.

The familiar screech of a peacock roused us the following morning; I lifted our blinds to see the sun peeking over the mountains, casting a gentle glow over the grazing horses. No cars, loud voices, or honking, just the peaceful rhythm of nature waking up, reminding us why we keep returning to this serene place.


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Butch begged me to hold my horses and stop wailing. To find the best route for flower sightings, we headed to the Information Centre in Garies. We then continued along the dirt road, which can be rough, so a high-clearance vehicle is recommended. The knowledgeable lady at the Nature office provided maps and tips to ensure a safe and enjoyable journey.

While there, I purchased the latest addition to my T-shirt collection. This year’s Garies Blomme T-shirt. I believe the colours intensify in sunlight. 

There are three routes, and all probably take most of the time to flower. Two head west, but we chose the eastern route, a personal favourite known for its sunny outlook. The bright sunlight on the flowers facing us makes the experience feel more vivid and special, encouraging us to explore these scenic paths ourselves.

We headed straight up into Studer’s Pass, east of the town, including the Langkloof Pass south of Studer’s Pass and Rooiwalspoort Pass on the R358.

At times, I was overwhelmed by the abundance of flowers in an area where we’d not previously seen such prolific splashes of colour. We stopped for a picnic lunch among the flowers.

Tired yet buoyed by the experience, we trundled to our campsite at Klipkraal on a farm 30 km south of Garies. The Honey Badger roused the flock of sheep that'd wandered into the kraal for the night, sending them scampering off into the foothills.

The campsite has ablutions and a wood-fired donkey for hot water, but no electricity. We are entirely self-sufficient and didn’t miss a night without Eskom.

To make a reservation, you can contact the chatty owner, Coenraad. He phoned us once we’d settled to see whether we were comfortable and had everything we needed. That was considerate, we thought. We use an honesty system for payment when, like us, an impromptu booking is made. We loved our tranquil night under the stars.

We awoke later than usual; the sheep here are well trained. After a leisurely breakfast, we set off to conquer more passes as we trundled to Nieuwoudtville. Both our camping spots are highly recommended.

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MASKAM GUEST FARM AND KOEKOEMAKRANKA RESTAURANT

"The activities on the farm include a swimming pool, mountain climbing, walking routes, bird life, bicycle routes, a playground, a trampoline, and farm animals for children. During August and September, the farm is covered with beautiful flowers (1500 species in total). We have a variety of flowers, e.g., Nama-Karoo succulents, fynbos in the mountains, and rare bulb species. We have a flower route for the public to enjoy nature at its best. Attractions in the area include a Gifberg tour, a wine tour, Victorian buildings, and the Kokerboom nursery in Van Rhynsdorp. Day tours can also be arranged to Nieuwoudtville, Clanwilliam or Strandfontein," the van der Westhuizens told us.

Tel: 027 2192589
Cel: 076 119 0242E.mail:  [email protected] 
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KLIPKRAAL CAMPSITE - WILD(ISH) CAMPING:  (This campsite is listed on iOverlander.)
TEL: +27 83 653 8554
TEL: 076 405 1059 
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