Fab Four Ride Again - Kraalskloof Campsite - Slanghoek

My sister-in-law Sue needs no introduction, though she’s a tough cookie and doesn’t take no for an answer. Trouble came as an email from the proprietress of a campsite she’d reserved for the weekend, on the banks of the Breede River. 

Glamping in the mountains

The email said the grounds had flooded, and that there would be no camping. Not fazed, Sue phoned Butch and said, “Come hell or high water, I’m camping, even if it’s in the Freemasons’ car park.” Butch didn’t think that was a good idea. “Happy wife, happy life” is his motto, and he knew his goose was cooked if Sue couldn’t go camping. The Honey Badger was packed and ready to roll.

Fortunately, while fiddling with his vintage Home X flip-open telephone directory, Butch managed to hit K (probably for Knight), and his eye fell on Kraalskloof campsite.  Karma was on his side.  With a sigh of relief, he heard there was a cancellation. We had the site.  All we did was change direction, heading away from the river towards the mountains—a much safer option.

We revisited a year after we broke out last year, when lockdown restrictions lifted. The improvements to Kraalskloof campsite blew me away.

 The two hot tubs, one seating four people, the other eight, are wood-fired and a constant conversation piece, with comments like “How hot is the water now?” or “Is the fire still burning?” and “Add some more wood.” The larger tub is uninsulated, constructed from a single layer of corrugated iron; it needs a day of pampering—the four-seater heats within a few hours. Just right when the party gets swinging.

Worming my way back into my bath, I took the plunge. Oh, what bliss. I swooned. Sue stepped in with two drinks for hydration. As we wallowed, our cold bones thawed, and I unburdened myself of weeks of stress and anxiety to a sympathetic ear. I needed that and felt invigorated and energised in body and soul.

Once again, we enjoyed our hikes into the mountains, especially to see the waterfall, which rarely flows. All around us, fynbos grew vigorously in shades of green, gold, and lime, having been rejuvenated after mountain fires a few years ago.   

The path to the waterfall is seldom maintained, but I’m sure that once visitors notice the waterfall and trudge up there, the track will wear down and become easier to navigate. The water in the pool was Arctic, and Percy, who takes cold showers every day, didn’t have the heart to dive in. In summer, it should be perfect after a hike. Had we known the spot was so perfect, we’d have taken a small picnic and lingered longer.

We didn’t take our bikes this time. There are numerous cycling trails. For the adventurous, there’s a route on the way to the waterfall. For the likes of me, there are numerous paths through the vineyards, burnished gold, copper, tangerine.

The ablutions, my favourite subject, are fantastic.  The recently constructed, refurbished container with two shower rooms is immaculate.  The shower is 5-star rated.  Hot. Perfect pressure and spacious.  If I had a complaint, I’d like a bench installed for the pile of clothing women need.   I love the finishes; this well-thought-out space is a pleasure.

Solar panels provide electricity to the containers.  The small kitchenette has a kettle and gas hob. There are a few plugs for an Engel fridge.  A two-basin scullery area has hot water supplied by a gas-fired geyser.

During the summer months, the canoe moored on the shore will delight everyone, and I’m sure lots will have to be drawn for turns.  Three large tractor tubes are available for those who prefer a leisurely dip and float with a sundowner.  Kids will love playing on those. 

The verdict was unanimous: Kraalskloof Camp is a perfect getaway for families, groups of friends, and campers who enjoy privacy and prefer being off the grid but not out of reach.  Just an hour’s drive from Cape Town. 

You can buy wood for the hot tubs and braai when you check in.  The manager, Jaco, is always accommodating, and the friendly staff show the way for those who don’t know.

The sunsets were exceptional. Sunrises promised glorious days.  Temperatures dropped,  but we were prepared for that. Just after 15h00, the sun slipped behind the mountains, our cue to wrap up warmly in furry jackets, bed socks, Uggs and beanies.  We certainly didn’t mind.  As soon as the big black kettle whistled, we filled our hot water bottles, tucked them between winter sheets for later. We sat a little closer to each other and shuffled nearer to the sit fire, which we kept going all afternoon until bedtime.  In my bedside basket, I had a delightful book, "My Grandmother Sends Her Regards and Apologies," recommended by my sister-in-law, who's never wrong with a good book at the right time.

Looking back on my previous blog, I noticed our meals were the same a year ago.  Butch braaied two humongous steak Florentines; I made a chimichurri, salad with roasted tomatoes and aubergine, hummus, and North African spices. Smashed red potatoes with sour cream and onion bits. For dessert?  Sue’s favourite chocolate pudding, vanilla ice cream and custard.

After our hike, we made a winter fruit salad with yoghurts and Bircher for breakfast.  We indulged in our special camping treat and had rusks with our coffee as the sun peeked over the mountains, their peaks lightly dusted with snow.  Sue and Percy made delicious boerewors rolls with a tomato relish for lunch and a yummy Lasagne Pot for supper.   We did well.  Melis and Sami beat us to the dishes. What a treat.  Jason's full English breakfast on Sunday filled a spot, and we were sated for the rest of the day.

I had nothing to complain about.  This, I tell you, is life.

Once again, I can’t recommend Kraalskloof highly enough.  It’s not going to be difficult to persuade our tribe to join us next time.

Website:  www.kraalskloof.co.za

SIDE BAR: Our lives are never predictable, and often, when we least expect it, fabulous things happen. My life was enriched when my brother married Sue; with her came three little children. Today, they’re all grown up; they’re not extended. They’re blood. Jason, Melis and Faffa (Christopher) joined us this weekend. Along came Sami, too, who has also become part of our family. Butch and I delight in the four adults you are. You are family. Melis, you’re an honorary member of the Fab Four, and we’d be delighted to call ourselves the Feisty Five! With us, there’s no favouritism. Guys, you’ve enriched our lives, and we adore you. PS. Next time, we're having your delicious rusks, Faffa.

If you need more encouragement, here are a few more pics...

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