Hats Off To Hoedspruit - Highlighted By Our Antares Bush Camp Experience

When we heard our friends from England, who lived in the New Forest, picked up sticks and moved lock, stock and barrel to South Africa, I was impressed, but when we heard Hoedspruit was their first choice of place to settle, I had my doubts. More fool me.

A reasonably sized town surrounded by a few dozen large wildlife reserves, some bordering the Kruger National Park, forming what is known as the Greater Kruger. Many lodges, guesthouses and boutique hotels cater to tourists who prefer to stay beyond Kruger’s borders while still having easy access to the Park.

I still hadn’t had my full dose of Christmas cake. My message to The Queen Of Tarts went something like this. “Hi QOT, I’ve had two slices of fruit cake, and I’m miserable and salivating, thinking about yours. If you have a tiny morsel left, please wrap it in cling film and bring it for me?”

Tea came first, and a Tupperware container held a slab of delicious cake. Brandy filled the air as the lid was lifted, revealing the white icing and marzipan. With a sense of entitlement, I eyed “my” cake and, reluctantly, offered the other guests a thin sliver. This cake was delicious. The fruit was perfectly macerated, the balance of flavours on my tongue set my taste buds alight, and the brandy nectar was from the gods. Thank you, QOT. Just writing about that slice on my plate sets my pulse racing.

Being with our friends, who made this extraordinary, arduous journey to spend a week with us, is a testament to their unwavering loyalty and commitment to always making time for their friends. In a world where friendships are often neglected and fall by the wayside, we are undeservedly privileged to have kind, generous, and authentic friends.

The week together was filled with much laughter and a few tears. Life balances good and bad moments, making us appreciate the sunny days and work through the cloudy ones with tenacity.

Our itinerary included walks on the beautiful wildlife estate where we stayed. One morning we went off to explore by bicycle with Dee, our guide and hostess. Along our route, we saw wildlife grazing lazily or waiting in traffic in the middle of the road. In some places, wild animals roam freely; those rumours are true.

On another day, we all piled into the Discovery and went to Khaya Ndlovu Safari Manor for breakfast on the veranda overlooking a watering hole. The splendid subtropical gardens reminded me of my childhood, when my mom, with green fingers and an unquenchable passion for gardening, soon had lawns, trees, and shrubbery covering acres of land on the hilltop where we lived.

We watched in awe as a giant crane deftly handled steel roof trusses to cover a new section of decking that would eventually become a cocktail bar.

With Dee leading the way, we admired the décor, the library, and the study, which displayed horse racing rosettes and trophies from the owners' previous life in Zimbabwe. The cool, thatched interior felt like a bygone age as we admired books, antique carpets, rare furnishings, and objets d’art.

Nothing beats stopping for a milkshake and browsing a Trading Post on a road trip; I tell Butch every time we pass one that iron shavings can't resist a magnet's pull. It's scientific. He stops. We order our milkshakes, and then I explore,  fascinated by the handicrafts, art, and condiments for sale. On tourist routes, there are plenty of options. This time one of Savanna Owtram's lovely headbands landed on my noggin'. Compliments rain on me whenever I wear it.

 

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 ANTARES BUSH CAMP AND PRIVATE ANIMAL HIDE

Antares is the brightest star in the constellation Scorpius and is often called “the heart of the scorpion”.

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The highlight of our visit was undoubtedly the two-night stay at Antares Bush Camp.

We stayed on a farm that is part of Grietjie, part of Buleli, and part of the Greater Kruger National Park. We stayed at the private lodge, Antares Bush Camp, which was reserved exclusively for our group of six. There are five bedrooms, accommodating a maximum of eight guests. 

Antares might be the scorpion’s heart, but at the heart of this story is a passion for Africa, its wildlife, conservation and education.

When a woman puts her mind to something, things happen. When her young school friends asked Mel Owtram what she would do one day, she replied, “I’m going to live in Africa.” Her degree in Environmental Biology was a stepping stone in her career path. After graduating, she started her professional career as a zookeeper in the UK.

Ian, her husband, was born in Malawi, later lived in Zimbabwe, and then moved to the UK. He also worked as a zookeeper at several wildlife centres but primarily at Whipsnade Wild Animal Park for five years.

Their paths crossed as if written in the stars. They met, fell in love, and made their dream of settling in South Africa, where Ian had begun his training school for wildlife guides on Antares, a reality. Soon two became four.

During the COVID pandemic, a decision was made to upgrade the manor house. The elegant décor is minimalist yet casual, with a touch of rustic simplicity. I must give a special mention to the showers. Brilliant! Open-air showers are just the best. The en-suite showers extend the bathrooms, so you don't have to walk outside to shower under the stars. I loved it. The bedrooms are well-thought-out spaces, minimalist yet equipped with everything a guest might need. Private, allowing guests to slip away from a group when they need some "me time."

Guests are invited and encouraged to shrug off their busy lives and pack their troubles into empty suitcases to be picked up on their way out at the end of their stay. A jolly good idea too.

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When we’re with Tozer’s Tours (The Queen of Tarts and our Inspirati), we prefer self-catering, but guests who want a treat can bring their own chef. With cool boxes loaded with delicious fresh fruit, meats and salads, we filled the fridges with our supplies and headed outside to enjoy tea and cake (the fruit cake was long gone by then) on the deck.

The slight rustle of Mopani leaves was all it took to alert Dee. She’s an old hand and a very intuitive guide. We needed to hurry down to the hide, she said. The elephants were heading towards the Umgedi Hide.

We grabbed our beanbags, cameras, and long lenses, charged our glasses, and quietly rushed down to our exclusive underground hideout.

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Butch and I have, occasionally, been tempted to pull out all the stops and make a reservation to spend a night (only one) at one of the very exclusive game parks or lodges that let guests photograph animals at eye level.

We shrug and close the file whenever we see the price, whether there’s a special rate or not. We can’t afford it. In addition, guests are allotted time slots to use such hides and must vacate when their time is up—no matter what they see. I believe these hides are also situated away from the camps.

At Antares bush camp, guests may enjoy the hide at the watering hole; it’s part of the experience and irresistible. House guests have exclusive access to the hide as often and for as long as they choose while staying there. The hide is sunken, like a bunker, and the open viewing “window” is at eye level with the watering hole.

Guests can use a fridge, kettle, crockery, glasses, and throws during a long stay.

This is a photographer’s dream come true. Ian and Mel have ensured guests can capture their perfect shot by providing bean bags and Gimbal camera pods. Luxury coaster chairs allow guests to move around to get the best shot. There are six chairs available for photographers, with ample room to manoeuvre.

We sat there, cameras ready to capture a once-in-a-lifetime experience. A breeding herd of cows with calves came down to drink, bathe, and play in the water. Our eyes were on their feet, and we could reach the nearest elephant at a stretch (but wouldn’t dare).

Before me, the pond is covered with French blue water lilies in bloom. My favourite colour. When things quieten down, birds return to sip water. In a tree, our ever-present companion, the little blue Woodland kingfisher with his red-and-black beak, is chip-cherrrrrrring away.

After our initial frenzy to bag as many shots of the elephants as possible, we settled and came to see them as individuals with personalities. Playful calves were learning to use their trunks, some copying the adults and dunking themselves headfirst into the water.

Some even smiled, showing off their prowess. We were sprayed at, glared at and ignored. Females guard their young, who, like children, either stay right up close to Mum or step away – a little, to show how brave they are.

Being close to the animals lets viewers engage all their senses to observe, learn, and integrate—their scent wafts when the air moves in the right direction. We could smell the mud and dust vividly, and even the dung had a distinctive grassy odour that wasn't unpleasant. Soon butterflies arrive, and later mushrooms pop up, sprouting from the rich mulch. Take the time to observe nature, and a wondrous world will open. Every living organism plays a vital role in the food chain. Destroy the platform it's built on, and soon the top dog will starve.

If the light was right, one could count the soft downy hairs on the baby’s trunk and forehead. At such close quarters, looking up at a matriarch, her size is formidable, and the calf’s vulnerability comes to the fore.

The tenderness, playfulness and camaraderie within the herd impressed me—a female who is never aggressive towards the young gently coaxes and teaches the calf instinctively.

As Butch often says, "Maricha likes photographing the little things". I did just that. The birds and bees, the flowers and the trees. Later, these become my memories, and the terapin (I'm not particularly fond of them) and the copulating dragonflies become some of my fondest. While we waited for the big things to appear, I could enjoy, undisturbed, the little things that make a fascinating impact. As Annie Leibovitz suggests, "Photograph everything. You'll regret it if you don't. They don't have to be pin sharp either." I take note and agree. 

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Ian took us on two game drives: one before sunrise and another in the late afternoon and evening. His knowledge is endless; he shared stories from his past experiences, clever anecdotes, and tips on animal behaviour. I especially enjoyed how we’d stop and wait patiently for the animals on the road to move off at their own pace—giving him time to chat and teach us something new.

Looking back, it feels almost surreal that we were able to enjoy this unbelievably special time with our friends.

We agreed this was the perfect venue for a small family reunion. It is an ideal spot for birders, photographers, and families seeking to introduce their young children to a unique wildlife experience without the crowds, in a safe environment. Small-group birding and photography courses could be hosted for like-minded members to enjoy an exceptional experience.

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Meals were a social occasion where we met around the campfire, rehashing some old or new tale. Butch braaied one evening, and over his shoulder, a herd of elephants, unperturbed, silently gathered at the watering hole, drank, bathed, and vanished.

Dining on the veranda was a special treat, especially after a cold European winter. Plus, no bugs drove us indoors. Ian joined us for supper after our game drive and regaled us with tall tales and bush lore. We drifted off to bed after an exciting day. Some enthusiasts returned to the hide, hoping for a nocturnal visitor. We didn't see one.

Move over, Ina Paarman. Michael's bobotie was a hit. Cor blimey, it was good, as only an Englishman can make it.

QOT’s puddings, cakes, salads and breakfast fruit salads are always winners. I’ll never know how she does it without looking flustered or rushed. One minute she’s reading her book at three hundred words a minute, and the next she’s cool as a cucumber, serving lunch or riding shotgun in an open Land Cruiser.

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Thank you, Tozer’s Tours, for another smashing get-together. You are friends of our hearts, and you’re always seated right next to me wherever we go. I know we’ll meet again in Nairobi, Casablanca or Timbuktu!

Mel and Ian, from the moment we met you at the lodge, we stopped feeling like guests and began to feel like friends visiting. You opened your hearts and your “home” to us as only excellent hosts do. Your passion and zeal for Antares Bush Camp and Umgedi Hide testify to your commitment to serving your guests and community while preserving our precious wildlife. Thank you. We left enriched, inspired, and sad, but with stories to tell!

Michael and Dee, special thanks for hosting us and for showing us around the estate. Dee, you're so enthralled with Hoedspruit that you bubble over with enthusiasm when showing your guests around. Michael, you're an excellent host and cook. Every meal from your kitchen was scrumptious. Dee, you're always positive. Your energy is infectious, and I love how you've settled into an eventful life in Hoedspruit, getting involved in so many projects and supporting your friends so passionately in all their endeavours. I will remember our lovely chats as we dipped our feet into your pool.

 

Please note there are direct flights from Cape Town to Hoedspruit, where I’m sure you’ll be met and whisked off to Antares Bush Camp for a wildlife experience like no other.

Fun Facts:

Mosquito repellent is a must.

Elephant dung is a natural, non-polluting alternative! It works by lighting a piece of dung, and the resulting smoke keeps mosquitoes away. People even use this smoke to relieve headaches, toothaches, and other mild pains.

or

People commonly use elephant dung in traditional medicine to ward off evil spirits and treat ailments such as nosebleeds, headaches, toothaches, and other pains. Some also say it clears the sinuses. (Bring a clump near me, and I'll be right as rain too.)