Island Style At Ngepi River Camp - Namibia

The marvellous advantage of writing or keeping a diary is that Butch and I continually relive our adventures; sharing these moments makes you feel part of our journey and inspires you to create your own.

I’ve just returned from an invigorating 27 km bike ride, feeling energised and eager to tackle the day. My near-fall (skidding through thick sand on a golf cart path) made me relive the hilarious scenes from our first bike ride at Ngepi, and I hope it makes you smile too.

We entered the bustling town of Divindu, where Butch went in search of last-minute goodies at the newly opened Metro store. Mayhem. Flustered, hot and scarlet-cheeked, he stumbled into the sunlight clutching his parcels, having survived a bun fight to find a bottle of gin in the most chaotic store he’d ever been to. For lunch, we stopped at the local deli after filling our tanks with fuel and indulged in a carb-loaded hamburger, something I rarely do. Very good indeed it was, too. 

The turnoff to Ngepi River Camp couldn’t have come sooner. After many days of travelling, we were ready to settle in, soak up the sun, and enjoy the laid-back, island-style atmosphere, with activities like relaxing by the river and exploring nearby spots.

Ngepi River Camp sits on the banks of the Kavango River in the north-west of the Zambezi region (formerly Caprivi), bordering Bwabwatha and Mahango National Park. The best time to visit is during [specific months], when wildlife viewing and weather conditions are optimal. I hoped to see sable antelope, hippos, lions, leopards, buffalo, elephants, and Roan antelope during our stay.  

Ngepi Camp boasts enormous trees, and between this "forest," campsites are nestled, which means the Honey Badger had to squeeze through some tight spots, and choosing a shaded site required careful consideration after pacing around a few campsites’ perimeters.

Snaking through thick indigenous trees, we made our entrance. Hot on our heels was another group of tourists, who waited while Butch parked. Thinking we would have friendly neighbours, we greeted them politely, only to be rebuffed. The tour leader spoke up indignantly, asking whether we had plans to remove the branch we’d “left in the road”.

Taken aback, we assured them we would and searched for the branch. By Jove, the branch was practically a tree. While the sullen group watched, Butch and I huffed and puffed while pulling and dragging the massive branch into the scrub with the eventual, reluctant help of the sullen bystanders. They ultimately got fed up and assisted us. It was time for a drink.

The Honey Badger didn’t get off unscathed; out came the duct tape, and soon, we had the gaping hole patched up, preventing rainwater from causing further damage.

Karma is a bitch. While they pitched three tents and a gazebo, then unpacked a gazillion crates, baskets, pots and pans in the sudden drizzle, we sat legs outstretched, enjoying the ebb and flow of river life while sipping sundowners next to our blazing fire. Cheers.

First thing the next day, we unharnessed our bikes and gave them a quick once-over to check for damage. After a week of ploughing through thick sand, rutted single-track roads, miles of thick brush, and the odd puddle, we found them sound and ready to roll.

Namibia is a popular cycling destination. While cycling on sandy roads can be challenging, many routes are safe, and local guides can help. Exploring the countryside by bike is rewarding and highly recommended, especially when you take proper precautions.

Excited by the prospect of exercise, filling our lungs with fresh air and exploring our surroundings, we set off. This would be the first time we’d encounter unexpectedly thick sand. It didn’t take long before one of us would bite the dust. My history of coming a cropper is well documented and predictable. To my great surprise, I’d come around a bend on a few occasions and find my beloved arse over kettle in a bush, or dusting himself off after yet another fall. Not accustomed to sandy roads, he’d engage both brakes, and, well, voila, he’d go flying over the handlebars. His shenanigans provided great mirth and delight to the local children, and on a few occasions we’d hear their distant laughter ringing out. He’d take it all with a pinch of salt, saddle up wearily and plough on.

After a good workout, we slipped into our bathers and dipped into the unique floating swimming pool. A steel-mesh enclosure with a boardwalk spans the river. A hippo- and crocodile-proof float is anchored in the Kavango River.

The resort uses solar power throughout in an eco-friendly way. Our grumpy neighbour complained to management about the low voltage, which benefited us by sparing our batteries during cloudy, inclement weather. (He did simmer down, and I’d hear them chat and share interesting information with Butch.)

We spent three glorious days at Ngepi Campsite. Our explorations took us through villages and farmland. We visited nearby Popa Falls Lodge and stopped for a breather and a cold drink. We enjoyed an ice-cold Coke at the local shebeen.

Bathing is a thing at Ngepi campsite, and I’d shower and do my ablutions in a different outdoor bathroom every day. My favourite was the jungle-themed shower, and to relax with my weary feet up, I wallowed in the iron tub overlooking the river.  

Indigenous forests line the river. The shade is a balm for the soul, as most campsites sit under gigantic trees. This could be your chance if you’ve never slept in a treehouse. Hugging the riverbank, several “treehouses” line the shore. 

Ngepi, we’ve discovered, is a favourite destination, and now we know why. The staff are brilliant, the accommodation perfect, and there’s a different watering hole for sundowners each evening. No one should be bored with all the activities on offer, e.g. gliding downstream on a sundowner cruise, showing your skills at Tiger Fishing, tag and release, of course. Game viewing, swimming, and, if you like, just lazing about and taking in the air. Clients can go online with free Wi-Fi while sipping a drink at the bar. 

We took to the road again and visited the Mahangu Game Reserve. We stopped for a picnic, sat, and enjoyed the elephant herd at the waterhole, delighting in herds of the plumpest Zebra, Kudus big and small, nervous Wildebeest, and large herds of Impala still in nurseries. The bristles of the Warthog are always my favourite, and the ever-graceful totter of the Giraffe never disappoints.

Birding is excellent on the floodplains. Our list of birds was growing rapidly, and we noted African Darter, African Fish Eagle, African Hoopoe, Jacana, Green-backed Heron, Lilac-breasted Rollers, Little Bee-eaters, and the ever-cute Kingfisher. Ah, and my favourite, don’t ask why, is the Ostrich in the wild. Oh! I forgot the cutest yellow-billed oxpeckers riding shotgun.

On more than one occasion during our stay on the Kavango River, I’d say to Butch, “I could live here.” I love the climate, the vegetation, the people and the slow pace. He’d raise his eyebrows, knowing full well that my itchy feet had places to go, sights to see and hidden gems to explore. Maybe one day, when I’ve been everywhere on my ever-increasing bucket list.

CONTACT:

https://ngepicamp.com/