Let's Hit The Road Jack - YZERFONTEIN

February 12, 2020 Posted in Review / Travel / The Honey Badger Diaries

My beloved knew I’d be emotionally drained after our glorious six weeks in Onrus with the family. This was my weekend to be spoilt, almost an early Valentine’s treat. He made a reservation at the Yzerfontein Caravan Park for the weekend and secured a lovely campsite using the camp layout on their website. Not only that, but he also made reservations at the best-reviewed restaurants, so I didn’t have to put my hands in dishwashing water for the duration.

How thoughtful is that? All I had to do was pack a few garments and my vanity bag. (The days of packing a panty and a toothbrush are long gone!) I doubt there could be anything nicer on any wife’s wish list.

Nothing comes without an agenda, but this time I completely agreed. We’d received the Honey Badger’s new rims, had them fitted and needed to give them a good go as Joe, the manufacturer, had instructed. We were not to spare the horses.

So, on the first Friday after the last of the children had left, we strapped on our bicycles and set off. The quick drive to Yzerfontein is one of the big plus points. I am not a good passenger and a poor co-driver; I fall asleep immediately unless I have something constructive to do, like knitting or crocheting, and it is far too hot for that.

We quickly set up our campsite, creating a cozy space that made me feel relaxed and eager to enjoy the weekend, encouraging readers to imagine their own escape.

Our supper reservation was an early one at KAIJAIKI COUNTRY INN AND RESTAURANT, the number one spot on TripAdvisor.

The owners, Renee and Mary-Anne, are charming and brimming with joie de vivre. They lovingly restored and added to the cottage, and their treasured objets d’art, collected over the years, were on display. Renee is originally from the Netherlands, and many items featured on the menu have a Dutch flavour, like the bitterballen, a favourite starter which I opted for.

Butch, always game, tried the venison carpaccio, which looked delectable, a good colour, and air-cured, I thought. I enjoyed my Bitterballen, golden, crispy deliciousness, transporting me back to my brief visit to the Netherlands a few years ago, and I thought the mustard sauce authentic.

We were spending the weekend at the seaside, so Butch immediately fell for the catch of the day; being an adventurous diner, he opted for the Butterfish (a variety unknown to him). He was very disappointed, as he still believes it might have been Kingklip (a mistaken identity, maybe). My main course, a ribeye steak, was disappointing as I prefer a thicker cut and not a “schnitzel” sized portion, thin and slightly overcooked. The side dishes were unremarkable. My pancake for dessert was good, and Butch thought the Almond tart so-so.

We really enjoyed the ambience; Renee is a raconteur with many delightful stories and Mary-Anne, his wife, is kind and generous. I suppose one must compare apples with apples, so all things considered, we were not dining in the city or Paternoster (heaven for foodies). I will recommend the restaurant if you’re looking for a relaxed evening in a small, quaint location, or if it’s mom’s night off and you’re in Yzerfontein. Do make a reservation.

I floated on cloud nine as I slept in our lovely bed, with my own linens and smells. For a while I could forget my sadness as I drifted off to sleep.

The next morning, Butch had thoughtfully switched his alarm off, so we snoozed a little later before setting off on our e-bikes to explore. We did a comfortable 14km circular route all around the coast. Once again, I was bowled over by all the development that has happened in Yzerfontein, with some interesting and original architecture.

With the promise of a cappuccino and Cinnamon bun, I put foot and cycled as fast as my legs could pump to Rosemead Artisan bakery and coffee shop. I am always a trifle sceptical when I return to a “favourite” place. Can they meet my expectations again? Yes. They. Did. The staff are friendly, the Cinnamon buns delicious, the coffee excellent, and I loved the Kombucha. Of course, we couldn’t resist a little take-away and left with Pasteis de Nata for tea later. Spelt Bread had just come out; I'd never tasted Spelt and didn’t hesitate to buy a loaf. It was delicious, and I'll certainly do it again. It suited my dietary requirements perfectly.

For lunch, we had a space at YzerBru Brewery. Butch enjoyed his brew thoroughly, and I wasn't disappointed by my pizza. The base was thin and crispy, and the topping was good. Butch succumbed to the homemade burger patty on the menu and enjoyed his hamburger, although he would’ve preferred a rarer patty. We rolled back to our campsite. The vibe makes this a particularly good stop, and customers start arriving by mid-morning, and chairs are occupied all day. Young and old can enjoy what’s on offer.

We spent the afternoon in siesta mode and only came around during the late afternoon. We had reserved supper at Meeurots Restaurant in the centre of the village. Situated upstairs, it offered diners on the balcony a view of some of the original, older homes and the sea. We enjoyed the walk from the caravan park and arrived just as the restaurant was filling up. After a brief chat with the owner, we ordered our meals from a very predictable South African restaurant. We often enjoy something we don’t generally prepare ourselves, and when we dine out, we enjoy something unique or something to tease our palates.

I am not sure of our options; I seem to recall I had the crispy calamari heads and the butterfish again. For starters, we did order a Greek salad, which arrived with our meal. This often happens, as kitchens aren’t accustomed to diners having a salad for starters, I assume. We do, and we’re always surprised by it! We did not have dessert. The meal was good on a “clean” plate with little fuss. I am sure most regular clients dine there because they know exactly what to expect. Service was a tad slow. We enjoyed our walk home.

My last review will be LULA’S MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT, just a stone’s throw from the caravan park. In fact, a gate has conveniently been installed in the wall separating the two to make accessibility easier.

A typical pavement restaurant, as one can find in Mozambique or near the seaside, this restaurant scored the highest. It was a lovely, sunny day, perfect for outdoor dining. The menu features a range of traditional Portuguese dishes, e.g. sardines, lula heads (crispy calamari heads), prawn croquettes (the best I have ever tasted) and spicy chicken wings. We were spoilt for choice, so we chose a tapas starter selection. This is always a good idea if we want to taste a range of dishes from the kitchen. It gives one an excellent idea of what the chef is capable of.

We really enjoyed our slow meal, and we were introduced to the chef, a fine gentleman from Inhambane, the capital of Inhambane Province in Mozambique, near Tofo, where we used to holiday. He was charming, and to top it all off, we were presented with a bottle of his Piri-Piri sauce, his mother’s authentic recipe!

A friend recommended this restaurant last year after he heard we were camping in Yzerfontein. We didn’t have the chance to go then, so we’re thrilled we did. We’d certainly return now; it ticks all our boxes for a relaxed afternoon enjoying good, authentic dishes.

The guitarist playing on the day was good, a musician who could give his songs a unique rendition of old favourites. A foot-tapping experience it was.

I hooked Butch’s arm as we sauntered home to while away the hours. With my book and some music, I fell asleep, only to wake in time for coffee, poured into our Nespresso mugs, which he took down to the beach. To feel less guilty about overindulging, we walked and enjoyed our coffee, sitting on the rocks until the sun set. An early night it would be. I had downloaded a movie from Netflix; we’d keep up our tradition of a Sunday night movie. I think we watched Baby Driver. A delightful movie well worth watching.

YZERFONTEIN CAMPSITE is one of the best campsites on the West Coast, I think. It’s well managed, easy to access, has an easy booking system, clean ablutions, and the beach is right there. All the interesting restaurants are close by, and once one has set up camp, getting around is no problem. Walk, run, cycle it’s as easy as that. Park your vehicle for the weekend.