Making Memories In Montagu

As we get older, we enjoy celebrations. Could it be that they’re becoming scarcer, as we attend more funerals than parties these days? Fortunately, we were on our way to a birthday braai and would camp in beautiful Montagu, with its heritage homes, enormous properties, channelled water, quaint businesses and friendly residents.

We were all smiles and Kumbaya as we set off with a bag of freshly baked almond croissants from our favourite bakery, Daly Bread, and a treat with our takeaway coffee, Pasteis de Nata. We've become rather fond of them. We're just keeping up the "padkos" (literally translated as food for the road) tradition.

A birthday celebration is a good reason to rev up our Honey Badger and head off for a weekend. With his vested interest in the Rugby World Cup, Superbru Butch never misses a game. We set off earlier than usual to watch the game in Robertson (always a good pit stop) at everybody’s favourite restaurant, Bourbon Street. I’ve only been there a few times and couldn’t believe how much they’ve expanded.

While the anthems were being belted out, we ordered drinks and a platter of fresh oysters. We had reason to celebrate. We know from previous experience that supper on our first night camping is always an affair, so we needed to be well prepared and opted for a tapas meal. Small portions of starters.

The menu featured most of the dishes loved by South Africans, and we readily tucked into Jalapeño Poppers, Fiery Sirloin strips in a creamy sauce, Crispy wings, and Nachos. Every morsel was delicious and perfectly prepared.

I was the designated driver from then on. We took it slowly. I had my driving instructor firmly on my shoulder, spurring me on as I remembered all his advice. The roadworks kept traffic moving steadily, and we made it to Montagu by midafternoon. It was blind spot, mirror, mirror, mirror, blind spot at every stop.

Construction has resumed on the colossal new Transversely launched Arch Bridge crossing the Kogmanskloof River in Ashton, and I am determined to be there when it replaces the old bridge. That’s going to be exceptional. Imagine the new tied arch bridge being launched transversely into its ultimate position over a weekend, after the old bridge has been removed. I wonder whether it’s been done here before.

Our reservation at Badensfontein, a charming grape farm near the Montagu hot springs, promised a relaxing escape. After a few turns, we found the farm eager to welcome us to its peaceful setting, surrounded by nature and vineyards.

A small, beautifully maintained campsite at the foot of the mountains offered only 7 campsites, some under large shady trees and manicured green lawns, so that we could pick our spot. Soon, the campsite buzzed with new arrivals. There wasn't much time to chat, as everyone was busy setting up. As the sun set, there was a collective sigh of relief as chairs were pulled closer and drinks poured. Now conversations could be heard as fires were lit in the barbecue drums available to guests.

The communal bathroom in a rondavel near our site is adequate, with two hot showers for ladies in two spacious rooms. Gentlemen don’t have it as easy. Butch found the shower cubicle small and cramped and wondered how he’d share it with another man. We suggested he use the ladies’ facilities, which worked far better. I’d suggest upgrading the “men's” showers and lavatories to a third facility and making the three shower rooms unisex, as couples share in any event.

Enjoy a leisurely 5km walk along the farm road, taking in Montagu's peaceful countryside and sparking your curiosity for more outdoor adventures.

While Butch and Percy watched the rugby in a pub, Sue and I headed off to explore, and our first stop was the Montagu Saturday market. Lovely. Set under large, shady trees, we browsed and chatted with the friendly stall owners, who generously shared their stories with us. You can buy anything there, from educational wooden toys for children to pancakes, art, jewellery, and beautiful crocheted dresses from a Zimbabwean lady who told us how she’d put three of her children through university with her handiwork. I must say she does a very good job. 

On our wall will hang the sweet watercolour I bought at the market, titled "eight is enough" by the watercolourist Maureen Riddell. It will take pride of place in our Honey Badger camper van.

Elton, a local street artist, showed us his bits and pieces with a big smile, but didn't offer any for sale; he has a good thing going, as we all "donated" to his cause. 

Bicycles are available to rent; interestingly, local artists have painted them for colour. I recognised Johanna Naudé's contribution immediately. Brief biographies are included. One gets the idea that, in Montagu, the town's survival is a team effort, with everyone pitching in and contributing according to their talents. Elsie Robertson, for example, bakes the most amazing cakes and supplies chefs and caterers with her bespoke cakes. A client dreams it, and she produces it perfectly.

Montagu boasts unique shops and galleries in historic buildings, making it a must-visit for those interested in Cape Dutch and Victorian architecture, which lend the town charm and character.

Cape Dutch architecture and Victorian buildings make up much of the village centre.

Lunch was at the local Craft Brewery Route 62, and what an experience it was. The brew master, Eugene from Elsie’s River, was a treat! He kept up his banter with every client and had us in stitches. I even messaged my son, Joe, in Canada to invite him.

Waffles in all forms, savoury and sweet, are served here, which is quite unusual. The waffles were light and fluffy; the chef has mastered the art. We ordered a selection to taste, e.g. one with classic pizza toppings (we’re doing lots of taster menus lately), and I was pleasantly surprised. My only complaint: I had far too much gluten for one with an intolerance. I would pay dearly.

Clever coffee sachets, once opened, become a drip system which is hooked onto the edge of a cup and aptly named Coffee Angels.  This is my second encounter; the first was at KOK Coffee in Hanoi, and now in Montagu.  Supplied by www.rouxbean.co.za, very nifty, especially for guesthouses and campers or hikers.

The Portuguese food emporium does a buffet lunch; we did not stay for the delicious meringue cake. It certainly looks impressive—hopefully next time.

Montagu is the capital of the dried-fruit industry, and we took full advantage by stopping at the Cape Dry factory shop. Within a few minutes, I had a basket filled to overflowing with fruit, nuts, seeds and honey. Our breakfast muesli is now loaded with delicious dried but fresh fruit and nuts. Well worth a visit. 

The birthday celebration was an enormous success; we overindulged in every way and loved every minute. It was lovely to meet the new boyfriend, catch up with family, and swap stories about our grandchildren and children. I vowed I’d fast come Monday. I didn’t, of course.

October is an ideal time to visit, with mild weather and gardens ablaze with colour. Indigenous medicinal plants thrive in the arid semi-Karoo, and Montagu prides itself on a beautiful formal medicinal garden at the museum, well worth a visit. You could buy a book describing the plants, their uses, and how to make salves and tinctures, etc. I seem to recall you could also buy ready-made decoctions.

All too soon our weekend was over, and we had to pack up once again and head home. We made it in time to chat to the children. A Sunday ritual now.

This time we made it home without any rim (tyre) problems. The saga is not over yet; I must report. But I’ll keep this little titbit for next time. Now I must dash off to my driving lesson.

BADENSFONTEIN: