Mushy Mossy Magic In Magoebaskloof

Magical, mysterious, and misty Magoebaskloof in Limpopo Province, between Tzaneen and Polokwane, is a lush, green, mountainous region carpeted with indigenous evergreen subtropical forest and vast plantations. I'd describe the climate as misty, rainy, and humid. Seductive.

The enchanted forest, where fungi, ferns, and ancient trees bedecked in mosses thrive, must be home to fairies, goblins, and gremlins. Crystal-clear streams cascade downstream, flowing into rock pools and waterfalls.

While Butch navigated tight corners, S-bends, and steep inclines, I had the chance to marvel at the tallest Saligna Gums, or Magoebaskloof Giants. They are, I’m sure, the tallest, straightest trees in Africa.

Although native to Australia, Eucalyptus saligna, commonly known as the Sydney blue gum or blue gum, is a medium-sized to tall tree endemic to eastern Australia. It has rough, flaky bark near the base of the trunk and smooth bark above, lance-shaped to curved adult leaves, flower buds in groups of seven, nine or eleven, white flowers and cylindrical, conical or cup-shaped fruit.

This lush forest is a haven for nature lovers, especially those who enjoy long hikes, birdwatching, and adventurous mountain biking. Have you ever thought of tying the knot beneath a canopy of trees or renewing your vows as a gentle breeze sways swathes of gossamer leaves in a gentle dance? Yes? Then this is the place to do so. Romantic and old-world, Magoebaskloof will captivate you.

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Butch is good at negotiating slippery dirt roads; his concentration is remarkable, and his eyes never stray to admire the views, a good thing on an unknown, muddy dirt road in Magoebaskloof. My shouts of “look at the view and the trees” fell on deaf ears. Just as well, with the 4x4’s hubs locked, we crawled to our camping spot for the night at Zwakala Retreat and Brewery.

Only one of a few campsites was available, and we were advised to take the one by the stream, which turned out to be a raging torrent, but it didn't bother us. We set up our chairs and took a steak from the deep freezer for our braai later. After a quick recce of the river and rapids, we strode up to the brewery for a pint. Butch deserved it.

The brewer, Luca Tooley, is charismatic. He reminded me of an old friend, Archie. Mischievous, fun-loving, daring, and game for any adventure, he is a breath of fresh air, oozing personality. Luca’s spontaneity and openness endeared him to us immediately. We live in an age of anonymity and guardedness, yet he lacked both.

During our travels, I'm usually the purser; I carry the boodle, almost the Money Mule, but ours is legal. Butch often says, when presented with a bill, “I’m a kept man!” and unceremoniously passes the chit to me. I loved the barman's response. “Butch, I aspire to be just like you!”

We chatted with Rob Tooley, the owner of this captivating parcel of land high in the mountains, who takes it easy, travels a lot, loves Africa, and couldn’t imagine living anywhere else but under a thick blanket of mist. The Brewery dog reminds us of Kobe, who wandered and guarded District Brewery in Canada. 

Rumour has it that in Modena, Italy, parents customarily buy a vat of Balsamic vinegar when a child is born. When the vat and the child have matured at 21 years, the vinegar, now thick and sweet, is presented to the child as a gift. The angel's share is approximately 15% of the original quantity. Rob does the same with the whiskey he distils. He says his grandchildren will enjoy the finest 21-year-old single malt whiskey from his oak barrels.

Instead of staying two nights, we decided to move on to level ground. Our weather app predicted inclement weather, and Butch thought the steep gradients, mud and slush might be a tad stressful, especially in a six-tonne truck on very narrow farm roads. Of course, locals flapped their hands and said the Yr app is seldom correct and that the chances of rain were unlikely. It did rain later that afternoon, but by then we were parked in an open field at the bottom of the mountain. Zwakala Retreat offers visitors many options: celebrate a special event, go hiking or cycling, or contemplate your navel. Relax or stay busy: do yoga, meditate, or read by the stream. 

The outdoor shower, built from local stone, was a treat. Spacious and with piping-hot water overlooking the river and rapids, I could've stayed under the jets until the water ran cold.

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You might spot exquisite tree carvings if you keep your eyes open in a forest. It was a first for me. In a novel I’d recently read, a character was a tree carver in Norway.

How extraordinary they were, too. I never knew carving living or dead trees was a thing. It makes sense, and if I had a thread of artistic talent, I might take up a chainsaw like Shane Christensen and wield it on trees. Have you ever carved your name, or your sweetheart’s, into a tree? Humans have been doing these strange and enchanting things for aeons.

According to anthropologist Augustin Fuentes, creativity and cooperation are the leading factors that have contributed to humankind’s evolution.

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A circular drive is all it takes to capture a picture of this heaven on earth. We had a few suggestions and recommendations, and I read about a Pancake House in Haenertsburg that would be perfect for coffee at ten.

Haenertsburg is named after Carl Ferdinand Haenert, born near Erfurt in Germany. He came to South Africa in 1857 to hunt big game, fell in love with the country, and never returned to Germany. He initially settled near the historic town of Schoemansdal and was the first coffee grower in the Transvaal.

“A quick spin through the village and then coffee?" I asked Butch. Quaint, arty and neat as a pin, we thought. Gardeners were busily sprucing up their gardens, digging, mowing and planting seedlings. A retiree’s dream destination. We learned that many farmers in the area owned a townhouse (dorpshuis) there. Motorbikers on breakfast runs began to file into eateries, while locals attended the Saturday farmers’ market.

In keeping with the Black Forest and local tradition, the wooden building on the hill invites guests to enjoy the views and breakfast or coffee—a popular weekend destination. We’d have pancakes, not a traditional cooked breakfast, being enjoyed by guests at adjoining tables. You’d think a pancake is a pancake, but there are pancake levels, e.g. fluffy, rubbery, light or thick, like Canadian pancakes. Ours was cold and a day old. Very crepe-like and disappointing indeed.

The delightful little German lady selling cheese from her tiny, Swiss Chalet-like farm stall made up for everything, and we tasted her delectable range of locally produced cheeses. She cut our portions with a huge cheese knife, wrapped them in white baking paper, and told us a little about herself. Everyone has a story, and we have time to listen on our journey.

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Magda De Jager, co-owner of Tzaneen Print Company, suggested visiting Krabbe Fontein on the Schultz farm at the foot of the mountain. We did so, and while waiting for our Roosterkoek, their speciality, we asked the restaurant's chef/owner whether we could wild camp. Raeme agreed.

I sighed with relief; we’d done enough driving for one day, and I needed to linger a bit longer. The Allerbeste deli and eatery is beautifully curated, and the shelves are stocked with exciting store-cupboard items. We filled a basket with Piri-Piri sauce, iced tea cordial and delectable, moreish macaroons. I returned for more.

The menu is adventurous, and guests can choose a roosterkoek or avocado for the Banters, or a slice of panini. Fillings and toppings are listed and include many variations: salmon, avocado, meat, salads, and interesting garnishes. It is a novel idea and perfect for a quick lunch stop or after a hike or bike ride on one of the numerous tracks available. Coffee is a specialty, and Krabbe Fontein roasters boasts its own unique blend, which you can buy to take home.

Thank you, Raeme, for having us stay. We loved our lunch and the bag of goodies I brought back to the Honey Badger. Our exploratory hike into the foothills was exhilarating and just strenuous enough to work up an appetite for coffee and cake after a hearty lunch. While rifling through my photos, I found I'd captured a Blister beetle in all its glory. He didn't damage Butch's bottom, though.

You said you don’t want Krabbe Fontein to become a tourist trap and want to preserve its exclusivity, but I think the world should know about your lovely establishment. Your beautiful gardens, the way you’ve renovated the spaces around the burnt-out, abandoned sawmill, and the tasteful way you’ve decorated Allebeste Deli. Your menu is avant-garde and unique. Congratulations.

While we were traipsing around, we met fascinating people: Miral, Sanel, and Maria. Their brief visit to admire our precious Honey Badger was delightful, and we were charmed by the girls’ spirit of adventure. Miral, your turn awaits, I’m sure. The Honiballs will stay with us as we travel, knowing how much they yearn to do something similar. Besides, the cartoonist, their great-cousin T.O. Honiball, was a famous Rawsonville character. P.S. Girls, you remind me of a very dear friend, Natalie, who lives in London; seeing you brought her vividly to mind. Like you, she's fiercely passionate about everything she turns her mind to. Thank you for introducing yourselves; your kind hugs were just what the doctor ordered. 

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The gardens we passed during our travels in Magoebaskloof reminded me of those I knew in Elgin and Grabouw: large, sprawling gardens with an abundance of water, where anything that takes root flourishes. Roses, hydrangeas, Japanese maples, flowering cherry trees and azaleas. Some bulbous plants I struggled to grow come up by the hundreds in the veld. Without interference, everything that takes root grows prolifically.

Speaking of which, if Circles In The Forest by Dalene Matthee weren’t set in the Knysna forest, this location would be ideal.

Later, after a sudden spell of rain, there was a knock on my window. Bester du Boisson, a local character, chatted up a storm. Night had fallen, but he kept us entertained. I wondered whether his wife was about to send out a search party. It was Saturday evening, and he wasn’t going anywhere. Bester is an avocado farmer and says that if we keep our avos at 1-3c (our fridges operate best at no. 5), the ripening process stops. So our avos should last longer. Only remove the one you need from the fridge and let it ripen at room temperature. No need to cover a cut avo; it will keep perfectly back in the fridge.

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The following day, we packed up and headed to the Kruger Park, from where we’d cross the Giriyondo Border Post into Mozambique. Of course, I couldn't resist the informal roadside stall. We stopped to buy some oranges; after all, we were in citrus country. The gift of half a pampelmo was pure nectar. I wish there were more of them about. The chap we bought our goodies from had spent some time in Kyalitsha in Cape Town; we were both happy to meet up and swap stories. He also finds the Cape too cold in winter.

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Krabbe Fontein is hard to find. Look for the Schultz Farm sign on the left side of the road on the way back to Tzaneen. It’s worth a visit, and Raeme is delightful.

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As I sit here typing in my current “office,” I hear the monotonous chugging of a little diesel boat engine (my kids had one on their boat in Gansbaai and called it a “klitser”). It’s puttering along, roller-coasting the waves while sending billows of smoke into the air. The ancient yellow-and-blue wooden boat has been ploughing these waters for decades. Serenity and fortitude are etched on the faces of the three unpretentious anglers, who aspire only to catch the day’s catch. “What a wonderful world,” Louis Armstrong might’ve said.

Today, October 23rd, 2026, while revisiting this blog, I thought of my friend Wegen Voster, who lived in the Dr’s Quarters with us back in the day (1979), his wife Elize Lizmore (the actress), their toddler Sophia Elize, and baby Danielle, all of whom also spoke fondly of Magoebaskloof and Wegen’s arty aunt who lived there. I wonder what became of them and where in the world they are today? Did life treat them gently?