Seven Sticks Of Wood And A Block Of Blitz
No final destination was the plan.
YR.com said it would be the worst weekend to go camping. I checked daily, which was very unusual, to see whether the weather would improve. Not a chance. We didn't want our spirits dampened by drizzle, so we packed up and headed off to see some spring blooms in Namaqualand, as one does at this time of year. It’s the best antidote to winter. The swaths of yellow, orange, mustard, pink and purple daisies, fynbos and bulbous plants that cover every corner of this dull corner of the world.
With great excitement, we set off on Friday after a light lunch, our audiobook on, my crochet hook ready.
The Boland is covered in green; fresh young leaves are sprouting everywhere. Vineyards are just beginning to show new growth, early varieties are well on their way, and some vines are in full leaf. In less than 12 weeks, farmers will be ready to harvest.
As the mountains give way to the rolling hills of the Swartland, canola fields are in full bloom. The landscape is an undulating wave of golden sunshine yellow and bright green, with wheat also growing vigorously, trying to keep up. I can see why artists like Pieter van der Westhuizen couldn’t resist the colourful landscape dotted with labourers’ cottages and strips of Blue gum trees.
We were also rolling along at a brisk pace, only slowing when the stop-and-go traffic demanded it. I loathe potholes, so I never complain about the inconvenience. This time, the friendly ladies waved us through in no time.
Yzerfontein on the west coast was our destination. I had my reservations. I’d last been there when Marthie turned 50, and I didn’t quite understand what people raved about in this coastal village. Butch clearly remembers the café owner telling him sagely, “there’s only one road in and one road out”! Nudge-nudge-wink-wink. That set my hackles on edge and left a rather bitter taste in my mouth. That spelled exclusion if you didn’t fit the mould.
We cruised into the campsite; no reservations were needed, and the fresh sea breeze mingled with the scent of nearby dunes as we chose our spot right by the boardwalk and settled in. Though it wasn't busy, the campsite had a lively feel, with fellow campers gathering around the ablutions, creating a sense of community.
Convivial is how I’d describe it. Neighbours came around to greet us, and we were encouraged to watch a spectacular sunset over the ocean. The well-maintained boardwalk was a treat, and we watched the orange ball dip into the mercurial water on the horizon as walkers, children, and their dogs took to the beach on a perfect evening.
The dunes have been reclaimed, and a spectacular indigenous garden has been laid out to prevent erosion. We enjoyed our sundowners before returning to light our fire for our customary Friday night steak braai.
In my experience, when generous men reach a certain age, they develop a resistance to the BIG FIRE. Where once it was no problem to use copious amounts of firewood, it now is the 7 sticks of wood and a thumbnail of Blitz (firelighter) fire. The bushel Butch had carted from the shop was new wood, and it was wet. He huffed and puffed and blew on his wood to tickle a flame from it until voilà, he remembered Bob’s bellows. That, and a bit of elbow grease, did the trick, and he eventually had a hot sit-fire going.
The usual West Coast mist stayed at bay, and we could sit out-of-doors well into the night. What a pleasant surprise! I can’t remember the last time we did that.
We had a late start the next morning. Glorious. No rush. I must concede that the Yzerfontein campsite is highly recommended. Well managed, tip-top maintenance, clean, lawns groomed, ablutions very good, hot showers with good water pressure. Remember, the West Coast still has water restrictions.
Each site is surrounded by tall Minatokka trees, creating a private, peaceful space. The well-maintained grounds and clean ablutions put us at ease and made us eager to camp again.
On a perfect summer’s day, the beach must be a joy for families with children; long walks can be taken, and we felt safe.
I am inquisitive and had to do a recce of Yzerfontein. We hadn’t had breakfast, and my tummy was rumbling. The intoxicating smell of freshly baked bread wafted through the air as we walked up the road, making it nigh on impossible to resist the fabulous Rosemead Artisan bakery. For me, it was their cinnamon bun. Delicious. A light, traditional cinnamon bun with swirls of cinnamon, but the cherry on top was the cream cheese icing. Oh, my word, it was delicious. Butch enjoyed his Pasteis de Nata, but I do think I had the buzzer moment. We left with a French loaf for our picnic lunch in the West Coast National Park and two cinnamon buns to enjoy with our morning coffee on Sunday.
I was impressed by Yzerfontein’s growth, its interesting shops, and the charm of Paternoster, which inspired us to explore these coastal gems.
We ambled back to the big road (West Coast Road) and turned in at West Coast National Park. Cape Nature had a special on, and we could enter at no charge! Because of foul weather reports, few day-trippers came, and the visitors we did meet made our visit very pleasant. The flowers had died down quite substantially, but we still got the gist of a very good flower year. We enjoyed our picnic on a perfect day with a view of Langebaan Lagoon. At some stage, I need to stay in a boathouse too!
We opted for wild camping on Saturday night. We turned off at TREKOSKRAAL (means the fold or corral for draught oxen) en route to Paternoster; this well-kept secret is a stretch of coast south of Paternoster. There are no facilities. It's first come, first served for camping spots, but there are numerous bays and suitable spots. Unspoilt, beautiful, peaceful. Sublime. Cattle slowed us down as we neared the beach, but this is their playground after all.
Years ago, farmers, odd free spirits, and people in the know went there and set up makeshift shacks to stay in; these have largely disappeared. Now it’s rooftop tents, Overlanders (like us) and campers who go to Trekkerskraal. From the thick mist, the cattle came down to the beach on our last day; I think they were telling us to go home. It was their turn to graze and lick at the salt. Unfortunately, although prohibited, motorbikes and quad bikes can be around; they’re like mosquitoes, and you don’t notice them until they start buzzing around you.
Once again, the pleasant weather held, and we could sit outdoors until bedtime. This time, we had no wood. I was adamant we would have a pit fire, so off we went, collecting armloads of dried kelp and the odd piece of driftwood or twigs washed up on the beach. The fire was massive but very smoky, and we had to feed it frequently. Eventually, we gave up and retired with our books.
Everything was going swimmingly until we needed to flush the toilet. Nothing. Unbeknownst to us, the electrical wires had oxidised and snapped, leaving us without power to the water pump. It wasn't a major setback; we just got on with it and made do with Plan B. We’d have to stop at AC Motorhomes on the way home to get it fixed.
A road trip is never complete without exploring new eateries, and where better than Paternoster for a new dining experience? If someone asks, "Have you been to Paternoster?" and you say "yes!" but you haven't had a drink at the Panty Bar at the Hotel, then you haven't been to Paternoster. It's an institution. One day you might even drop your drawers there! They serve excellent meals on the stoep, perfect for the children after a morning on the beach.
Oep ve Koep was open. A shopper’s delight. I often get no further than the first counter, where the recipe books are laid out. What a lovely selection of South African recipe books.
Butch struck up a conversation with Kobus van der Merwe’s (he of Wolfgat fame) mum, who owns the shop, while I browsed to my heart’s content. They also serve a lovely lunch menu, but by appointment only. Next time, we’re sure to make a reservation. Inspired by Kobus but executed by Chef Adele Hughes, the select blackboard menu looked scrumptious.
We were off to LEETO, a relatively new restaurant at the Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel—a beautifully appointed space of all-white minimalism, with interesting art and gorgeous King Proteas on the tables. Guests can sit indoors or on the veranda. Here, it’s all about seafood and sea views. Beautiful.
The Spring Specials were still on, so we decided to take up the offer. My black mussels in a Malay curry sauce were sublime. The mussels were plump and steamed to perfection. The sauce was velvety, full of authentic flavour and just the right heat. Butch sang the praises of his delicious Seafood Risotto. The seasoning was spot on, and nothing overwhelmed the delicate seafood: tender baby calamari and plump prawns.
Our mains were Sirloin steak done to perfection: beautifully plated, with crisp vegetables and a croquette to die for. Butch had the Seafood pasta. I couldn’t get a word out of him except oohs and aahs. We normally share; I did, but I didn’t get a lick of that creamy pasta sauce.
No meal is complete without dessert, and I had left space for mine. A lemony gelatine mousse with berries and a chocolate extravaganza for B, served with a most interesting ice cream – marmalade. Very good indeed.
Full of bonhomie, we decided to spend another night at Trekoskraal before returning home. We could justify the decision; we needed to do maintenance in Brackenfell. Once again, we agreed that Paternoster was worth returning to, and we would. For a relatively small seaside town, it is the capital of world-class eateries in South Africa. I can’t imagine another destination with so much variety. Can you?
We slowly meandered back to our bush camp, choosing a different spot this time—another magnificent one with lawns, a stretch of beach and the rolling waves. Far in the distance, another vehicle was parked for the night. This time we had ample wood, thanks to an informal trader selling wood at a corner as we left Paternoster.
Our tranquility was briefly disrupted when a small delivery van pulled into a space just a few metres from us. We grumbled, but the young couple were so quiet that we forgave them. Until you’ve walked in another person’s shoes, you have no idea. Turns out they have a story too.
We planned to return to Yzerfontein for cinnamon rolls, but the bakery is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. We stopped at the first Farm Stall; it always looks busy, which is a good sign. Sadly, we were both disappointed. It was shabbier than chic.
Yesterday morning, Butch received a WhatsApp message with one photograph: the Honey Badger with a flat tyre on the right-hand side. Our nemesis. Oh, what to do?
We use the following apps: YR.com for the weather; iOverlander for possible campsites; Tripadvisor and Google Maps; and Spotify and Audible to make our road trips and camping more enjoyable.
The Boland is covered in green; fresh young leaves are sprouting everywhere. Vineyards are just beginning to show new growth, early varieties are well on their way, and some vines are in full leaf. In less than 12 weeks, farmers will be ready to harvest.
As the mountains give way to the rolling hills of the Swartland, canola fields are in full bloom. The landscape is an undulating wave of golden sunshine yellow and bright green, with wheat also growing vigorously, trying to keep up. I can see why artists like Pieter van der Westhuizen couldn’t resist the colourful landscape dotted with labourers’ cottages and strips of Blue gum trees.
We were also rolling along at a brisk pace, only slowing when the stop-and-go traffic demanded it. I loathe potholes, so I never complain about the inconvenience. This time, the friendly ladies waved us through in no time.
Yzerfontein on the west coast was our destination. I had my reservations. I’d last been there when Marthie turned 50, and I didn’t quite understand what people raved about in this coastal village. Butch clearly remembers the café owner telling him sagely, “there’s only one road in and one road out”! Nudge-nudge-wink-wink. That set my hackles on edge and left a rather bitter taste in my mouth. That spelled exclusion if you didn’t fit the mould.
We cruised into the campsite; no reservations were needed, and the fresh sea breeze mingled with the scent of nearby dunes as we chose our spot right by the boardwalk and settled in. Though it wasn't busy, the campsite had a lively feel, with fellow campers gathering around the ablutions, creating a sense of community.
Convivial is how I’d describe it. Neighbours came around to greet us, and we were encouraged to watch a spectacular sunset over the ocean. The well-maintained boardwalk was a treat, and we watched the orange ball dip into the mercurial water on the horizon as walkers, children, and their dogs took to the beach on a perfect evening.
The dunes have been reclaimed, and a spectacular indigenous garden has been laid out to prevent erosion. We enjoyed our sundowners before returning to light our fire for our customary Friday night steak braai.
In my experience, when generous men reach a certain age, they develop a resistance to the BIG FIRE. Where once it was no problem to use copious amounts of firewood, it now is the 7 sticks of wood and a thumbnail of Blitz (firelighter) fire. The bushel Butch had carted from the shop was new wood, and it was wet. He huffed and puffed and blew on his wood to tickle a flame from it until voilà, he remembered Bob’s bellows. That, and a bit of elbow grease, did the trick, and he eventually had a hot sit-fire going.
The usual West Coast mist stayed at bay, and we could sit out-of-doors well into the night. What a pleasant surprise! I can’t remember the last time we did that.
We had a late start the next morning. Glorious. No rush. I must concede that the Yzerfontein campsite is highly recommended. Well managed, tip-top maintenance, clean, lawns groomed, ablutions very good, hot showers with good water pressure. Remember, the West Coast still has water restrictions.
Each site is surrounded by tall Minatokka trees, creating a private, peaceful space. The well-maintained grounds and clean ablutions put us at ease and made us eager to camp again.
On a perfect summer’s day, the beach must be a joy for families with children; long walks can be taken, and we felt safe.
I am inquisitive and had to do a recce of Yzerfontein. We hadn’t had breakfast, and my tummy was rumbling. The intoxicating smell of freshly baked bread wafted through the air as we walked up the road, making it nigh on impossible to resist the fabulous Rosemead Artisan bakery. For me, it was their cinnamon bun. Delicious. A light, traditional cinnamon bun with swirls of cinnamon, but the cherry on top was the cream cheese icing. Oh, my word, it was delicious. Butch enjoyed his Pasteis de Nata, but I do think I had the buzzer moment. We left with a French loaf for our picnic lunch in the West Coast National Park and two cinnamon buns to enjoy with our morning coffee on Sunday.
I was impressed by Yzerfontein’s growth, its interesting shops, and the charm of Paternoster, which inspired us to explore these coastal gems.
We ambled back to the big road (West Coast Road) and turned in at West Coast National Park. Cape Nature had a special on, and we could enter at no charge! Because of foul weather reports, few day-trippers came, and the visitors we did meet made our visit very pleasant. The flowers had died down quite substantially, but we still got the gist of a very good flower year. We enjoyed our picnic on a perfect day with a view of Langebaan Lagoon. At some stage, I need to stay in a boathouse too!
We opted for wild camping on Saturday night. We turned off at TREKOSKRAAL (means the fold or corral for draught oxen) en route to Paternoster; this well-kept secret is a stretch of coast south of Paternoster. There are no facilities. It's first come, first served for camping spots, but there are numerous bays and suitable spots. Unspoilt, beautiful, peaceful. Sublime. Cattle slowed us down as we neared the beach, but this is their playground after all.
Years ago, farmers, odd free spirits, and people in the know went there and set up makeshift shacks to stay in; these have largely disappeared. Now it’s rooftop tents, Overlanders (like us) and campers who go to Trekkerskraal. From the thick mist, the cattle came down to the beach on our last day; I think they were telling us to go home. It was their turn to graze and lick at the salt. Unfortunately, although prohibited, motorbikes and quad bikes can be around; they’re like mosquitoes, and you don’t notice them until they start buzzing around you.
Once again, the pleasant weather held, and we could sit outdoors until bedtime. This time, we had no wood. I was adamant we would have a pit fire, so off we went, collecting armloads of dried kelp and the odd piece of driftwood or twigs washed up on the beach. The fire was massive but very smoky, and we had to feed it frequently. Eventually, we gave up and retired with our books.
Everything was going swimmingly until we needed to flush the toilet. Nothing. Unbeknownst to us, the electrical wires had oxidised and snapped, leaving us without power to the water pump. It wasn't a major setback; we just got on with it and made do with Plan B. We’d have to stop at AC Motorhomes on the way home to get it fixed.
A road trip is never complete without exploring new eateries, and where better than Paternoster for a new dining experience? If someone asks, "Have you been to Paternoster?" and you say "yes!" but you haven't had a drink at the Panty Bar at the Hotel, then you haven't been to Paternoster. It's an institution. One day you might even drop your drawers there! They serve excellent meals on the stoep, perfect for the children after a morning on the beach.
Oep ve Koep was open. A shopper’s delight. I often get no further than the first counter, where the recipe books are laid out. What a lovely selection of South African recipe books.
Butch struck up a conversation with Kobus van der Merwe’s (he of Wolfgat fame) mum, who owns the shop, while I browsed to my heart’s content. They also serve a lovely lunch menu, but by appointment only. Next time, we’re sure to make a reservation. Inspired by Kobus but executed by Chef Adele Hughes, the select blackboard menu looked scrumptious.
We were off to LEETO, a relatively new restaurant at the Strandloper Ocean Boutique Hotel—a beautifully appointed space of all-white minimalism, with interesting art and gorgeous King Proteas on the tables. Guests can sit indoors or on the veranda. Here, it’s all about seafood and sea views. Beautiful.
The Spring Specials were still on, so we decided to take up the offer. My black mussels in a Malay curry sauce were sublime. The mussels were plump and steamed to perfection. The sauce was velvety, full of authentic flavour and just the right heat. Butch sang the praises of his delicious Seafood Risotto. The seasoning was spot on, and nothing overwhelmed the delicate seafood: tender baby calamari and plump prawns.
Our mains were Sirloin steak done to perfection: beautifully plated, with crisp vegetables and a croquette to die for. Butch had the Seafood pasta. I couldn’t get a word out of him except oohs and aahs. We normally share; I did, but I didn’t get a lick of that creamy pasta sauce.
No meal is complete without dessert, and I had left space for mine. A lemony gelatine mousse with berries and a chocolate extravaganza for B, served with a most interesting ice cream – marmalade. Very good indeed.
Full of bonhomie, we decided to spend another night at Trekoskraal before returning home. We could justify the decision; we needed to do maintenance in Brackenfell. Once again, we agreed that Paternoster was worth returning to, and we would. For a relatively small seaside town, it is the capital of world-class eateries in South Africa. I can’t imagine another destination with so much variety. Can you?
We slowly meandered back to our bush camp, choosing a different spot this time—another magnificent one with lawns, a stretch of beach and the rolling waves. Far in the distance, another vehicle was parked for the night. This time we had ample wood, thanks to an informal trader selling wood at a corner as we left Paternoster.
Our tranquility was briefly disrupted when a small delivery van pulled into a space just a few metres from us. We grumbled, but the young couple were so quiet that we forgave them. Until you’ve walked in another person’s shoes, you have no idea. Turns out they have a story too.
We planned to return to Yzerfontein for cinnamon rolls, but the bakery is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays. We stopped at the first Farm Stall; it always looks busy, which is a good sign. Sadly, we were both disappointed. It was shabbier than chic.
Yesterday morning, Butch received a WhatsApp message with one photograph: the Honey Badger with a flat tyre on the right-hand side. Our nemesis. Oh, what to do?
We use the following apps: YR.com for the weather; iOverlander for possible campsites; Tripadvisor and Google Maps; and Spotify and Audible to make our road trips and camping more enjoyable.
STRANDLOPER OCEAN BOUTIQUE HOTEL - LEETO RESTAURANT
Patterson close
Paternoster,
Saldanha Bay Municipality
7381,
South Africa
TEL: +27 60 927 0403
TEL: +27 60 927 0403
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