The Right Side Of The Tracks - Wild Camping

We left Nieu Bethesda on a sunny morning, eager to combine our love of train history with wild camping as we headed home through the Karoo’s blooming veld. 









Laingsburg doesn’t appeal to me as a stopover, and Butch agreed, suggesting we press on. Soon after, a favourite destination we’d saved appeared on our GPS, reminding us of our Easter Weekend breakaway to Kanniedood Wild Camping. As we approached the railway crossing on the N1, I felt a thrill recalling passing the railway siding on the way there, sparking my curiosity and eagerness to explore this hidden spot.







Ideal.

It was perfect. We parked, protected by the deserted signal building. The sun was about to set, golden (as it does in the Karoo) behind the koppies, when Butch lit our fire and gave us time for a short walk.













On one of the sidings stood a monolithic, grimy blue Transnet locomotive, seemingly abandoned. I felt an immediate urge to explore, sensing a story in its silent presence. The smell of diesel, oil, and forgotten dreams enveloped me as I sat in the driver’s seat. Wiping the small, dirty window, I saw the tracks gleam golden and imagined trains rattling towards De Aar. The colossal machine resembled a vast electrical board, with a driver’s compartment and a tiny cubicle for the engineer and his mate to rest during shifts, sparking my fascination with train history and mechanics. 







We enjoyed our fire long after sunset. Butch grilled our Karoo chops to perfection, and the braai broodjies were crispy, oozing with golden cheddar cheese. Finger-licking good.





At 22h00, I heard the rumble of an oncoming train snaking ever nearer. With only a bright spotlight ahead, the enormous python rolled past, unstoppable, shrieking as metal grated on the silver steel tracks. It thundered past the little building standing sentinel on its way to Cape Town. I dozed off, imagining I heard the rattle of the conductor's key knocking on doors, but I didn't look forward to the acrid smell of the cramped loo, and I was relieved there would be no minute shaving of coal lodged in my eye.

That was the only train we saw on what once was a busy transport route.







I loved the brief time we spent at Gemsbok, and I hope one day mail and milk might be delivered there again! Not likely, but one can dream. For now, I'll have to make do with memories of past rail journeys across India, Vietnam, Europe and South Africa.



GPS Coordinates for Gemsbok Siding: Side Note: We were safe and never felt nervous. I hope we can stop and sleep over at many of these small, off-the-beaten-track sidings and stations in the future. I marked the spot with a brief description and photographs in the iOverlander App.

S 33.09594  

E 21.37005