Third Time Lucky - Goegap Nature Reserve - Springbok

Sometimes, you must read and follow the rules to avoid disappointment—case in point, Goegap Nature Reserve. Adhering to the 16h00 closing time is key to a smooth visit. Respecting these rules helps preserve the reserve for everyone and makes your experience more enjoyable.

Just a few kilometres from Springbok, this small reserve is a little-known gem that can spark your sense of adventure and inspire you to explore hidden natural treasures. 

We planned to spend two nights there, but we stayed four. We loved it. For most of our time there, we were alone. One bus arrived at the visitor centre, but it stayed only an hour. We had the place to ourselves.

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In Springbok, we visited Hendrik’s friends at Harem Burger, which offers hot showers and a safe place to pitch a tent for long-distance cyclists passing through. They are part of an accommodation group like Airbnb, but this one is specifically for cyclists on a cycling journey. Harem was very helpful in planning our Richtersveld trip, giving us tips and poring over maps and charts. Harem recommended the butcher at the Super Spar for our meat, biltong and droëwors supplies. I'm not sure what the cycling app's called. Thanks, Harem, for your time, patience and friendliness to strangers. We are so impressed with the choices, freshness and quality of supplies and other groceries that we do the bulk of our shopping in Springbok—no need to schlepp a truckload of food from home anymore.

Since meeting a Belgian couple in Namibia six years ago, we’ve become more aware of long-distance travellers, especially cyclists, and now actively connect with them along the way to share stories and tips.

This is how we met Dane Christensen from the USA and his partner, Rachel, who until recently guided tourists in Alaska. They began their cycling journey in Cape Town a few weeks ago and are battling the heat in Namibia on their way to Kenya, hoping to summit Kilimanjaro in March.

Butch and I are in awe of these adventurous youngsters making these daring trips, often choosing a lifestyle different from the staid, conservative one we opted for. Dane, an expert in bike repairs, helped Butch with the squeak in his gears. Springbok lacks a reliable bike-repair fundi. The only shop couldn't help us.

When you’re on the road like we are, doing our chores is a given, which I don’t mind at all, but it’s a treat to have our heavy-duty washing machine serviced when we can. I don’t have an iron on board, and crisp, clean, ironed linen on our bed feels like heaven. I googled a laundry service in Springbok, and Wendy's Laundry had the best star rating by far.

With a pin-drop, we located Wendy quickly, delivered the huge yellow laundry bag, and, despite load-shedding that afternoon, Wendy sent a WhatsApp message to say our laundry was ready for pick-up. Beautifully ironed, fragrant, and folded perfectly. Her fees are too reasonable, and it would’ve been amiss of us not to compliment her initiative, drive, and quality work. Wendy even has a Jenny de Ruyter (generator) to help when Eskom lets us down. Once again, well done, Wendy. You’re a star.

After restocking our fridge with lovely fresh vegetables, fruit, and dairy products, Butch filled his meat list at Spar. I shopped at all the Spar, Checkers, and Shoprite stores, which had excellent, well-stocked shelves, and I was being pernickety. Once my larder was full, we returned to our campsite, where we chilled out and explored the reserve.

A visit to Springbok wouldn't be complete without a stop at the iconic Springbok Cafe. It's still in the same place; nothing much has changed. I love the diner feel of the shop-cum-cafe, with its 50s-style furniture. We chose a booth and had a milkshake, then I browsed the artefacts, semi-precious stones, books, and other paraphernalia—a fascinating shop. Oh, the only thing that has changed is the owner; I think he's just gotten older, and his hair is now snow-white.

Back at the Goegap reserve, we stayed. On our bikes, we took long rides and picnicked in the beautifully curated botanical gardens. I strolled through the rockeries and fell in love with the idea of a natural garden filled with indigenous plants.

Spring is when tourists flock to the park to see fields upon fields of Namaqua daisies, bulbs, and fynbos. We didn’t have the honour of seeing the land in all its splendour, but I can imagine it must be a sight to behold. One day we’ll be back. Numerous picnic spots are well placed for a brekkie or lunch as you enjoy the blooms. 

Our Wi-Fi modem worked best at one of the picnic spots, where we camped for a day to catch up on admin and blogging.

On two or three occasions, we heard and saw aeroplanes landing and taking off at the Springbok Airport, and once witnessed the emergency landing of a Libyan aircraft on a mercy flight. Butch rightly remarked, “More planes are landing in Springbok than trains are running on the main Cape Town to Johannesburg line.”

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We have been concerned about our communication with our grandchildren, especially the littlies who hardly know us. We came up with the idea of reading short, age-appropriate stories on video, which I download from YouTube, and then we forward the link. This idea inspired me to stock up on some children's books, which we’re now reading to them. We’re enjoying the exercise and hope they do too! If something interesting happens that we think might thrill them, we videotape it and send it on. This way, we hope they won't forget us.

All these little things inspire us to look more closely, take note, and focus our minds, eyes, and ears on a younger generation. We’ve noticed we’re seeing and learning a lot too. We’re far more enquiring, and because we’re doing it for our grandchildren, people are open to sharing their knowledge, expertise, and exciting stories, which we share in our chats. We’re also more confident about asking permission to film and record. It's a win-win for all of us, and something I recommend Grandparents do. Your eyes will open to so much more around you.

To illustrate my point, on one occasion Butch noticed an army of ants carrying seeds across the road. We stopped to photograph this rarely seen phenomenon. The cotton-ball seeds, dispersed by the wind, surround the plants and, in large patches, look like fresh snow. Karoo snow.

At night, we’d sit outdoors and enjoy our supper while listening to the barking geckos (if the bugs attracted to our lights allowed us to). We've been inundated with flying insects, and I have itchy welts all over my limbs.

There are numerous clearly marked hiking and cycling routes, as well as short and long walks. I want to encourage everyone who can to visit this beautiful, underutilised park. While Butch lit his braai fire, I did a short hike around the koppie nearest the campsite. It was exactly what I needed after a long day in the truck.

Opening and closing times are a little strange, but the ladies we met work long hours: 12 days on, then two days off. They live in Springbok, and the unforgiving heat must be exhausting. Plus, it’s not very busy, so it must be tedious too. I would also down tools at exactly four, not a minute later.

The Richtersveld was calling, and we were ready to roll on to the next adventure.

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*The Spar in Springbok is excellent for all one's grocery needs. The butcher is helpful, and fresh produce is abundant.

Because our time is limited and our Wi-Fi or internet connectivity is often sketchy, I sometimes place photos randomly. I want to share our experiences with you, in the hope of encouraging you to travel, to look more closely, or just to enjoy some sights we share. We do it with such enthusiasm; forgive us!!

PS: We do have other outfits, but we seem to be using the top ones from the pile! We launder every day, and most of our things dry very quickly.