Third Time Lucky - Goegap Nature Reserve - Springbok

Sometimes, one must read and adhere to the rules to sidestep disappointment—case in point. Goegap Nature Reserve.  On two previous occasions we've stopped at the gate to stay over and wondered why no one opened it. It’s because they close at 16h00 every day. Not a minute earlier nor a minute later. We knew this now and got to the gate well in time to get ourselves a camping site. There are a few different accommodation options too.

Situated just a few kilometres out of Springbok, this small reserve is a little-known gem and one that should not be overlooked. 

Our initial idea was to spend two nights there, but we stayed for four nights. We loved it. For the majority of our time there, we were alone. One bus arrived at the visitor’s centre but stayed only an hour. We had the place to ourselves.

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While in Springbok, we called on Hendrik’s friends, Harem Burger, who provides  hot showers and a safe spot to pitch a tent for long distance cyclists passing through. They are subscribed to an accommodation group, like Airbnb, but this one is specifically for cyclists who’ve embarked on a cycling journey. Harem was very helpful in our planning of our Richtersveld trip, giving us tips, poring over maps and charts. Harem recommended the butcher at the Super Spar for our meat, biltong and droewors supplies.  I'm not sure what the cycling App's called. Thanks Harem for your time, patience and friendliness to strangers. We are so impressed with the choices, freshness and quality of fresh supplies and other groceries we that we do the bulk of our shopping in Springbok. No need to schlepp a truck load of food from home any more.

Since meeting a Belgium couple in Namibia six years ago, we’ve become more aware of long-distance travellers, and cyclists in particular, and now recognise them along the way. We make a point of waving and chatting when we can.

This is how we met Dane Christensen, from the USA, and his partner Rachel, who until recently guided tourists in Alaska. They began their cycling journey in Cape Town a few weeks ago and are battling the heat in Namibia on their way to Kenya, hoping to summit Kilimanjaro in March.

Butch and I are in awe of these adventurous youngsters making these daring trips, often choosing a different lifestyle than the staid, conservative one we opted for. Dane, an expert in bike repairs, helped Butch with the squeak he had on his gears. Springbok lacks a  reliable bike repair fundi. The only shop was unable to assist us.

When you’re on the road like we are, doing our chores is a given, which I don’t mind at all, but it’s my treat to have our heavy-duty laundry machine laundered when we can. I don’t have an iron on board, and the feel of crisp, clean, ironed linen on our bed is like heaven. I googled a laundry service in Springbok, and the best star rating by far was Wendy’s Laundry.

With a pin drop, we located Wendy quickly, delivered the huge yellow laundry bag and during the afternoon, load-shedding not withstanding, Wendy sent a WhatsApp message to say our laundry was ready for pick up. Beautifully ironed.  fragrant and folded perfectly. Her fees are too reasonable, and it would’ve been amiss of us not to compliment her on her initiative, drive and quality work. Wendy even has a Jenny de Ruyter (generator) to help when Eskom lets us down. Once again, well done, Wendy, you’re a star.

After restocking our fridge with lovely fresh vegetables, fruit and dairy products, Butch had his meat list filled at the Spar. I shopped at all the Spar, Checkers and Shoprite stores, which had excellent, well-stocked shelves, and I was being pernickety. Once my larder was full we returned to our campsite, where we chilled and explored the reserve.

A visit to Springbok wouldn't be complete without making a turn at the iconic Springbok Cafe. Still in the same location; nothing much has changed there. I love the diner feel of the shop-cum-cafe, with the 50's style furniture. We chose a booth and had a milkshake afterwhich I browsed around the artifacts, semi precious stones, books and other paraphenalia. A fascinating shop. Oh the only thing that has changed is the owner, I think he's just got older and his hair is now snow white.

Back in the Goegap reserve we went and stayed. On our bikes, we went for long rides and had our picnics at the beautifully curated botanical gardens. I took a stroll through the rockeries and fell in love with the idea of a natural garden filled with indigenous plants.

Spring is when tourists flock to the park to witness the fields upon fields of Namaqua daisies, bulbs and fygies. We didn’t have the honour of seeing the land in all its splendour, but I can imagine it must be a sight to behold. One day we’ll be back. Numerous picnic spots are located in good positions for enjoying a brekkie or lunch while enjoying the blooms. 

Our Wi-Fi modem worked best at one of the picnic spots where we camped out for a day to catch up with some of our admin and blogging.

On two or three occasions, we heard and spotted aeroplanes landing and taking off at the Springbok Airport and once witnessed the emergency touchdown of a Libyan aircraft on a mercy flight. Butch rightly remarked, “more planes are landing in Springbok than trains are running on the main Cape Town to Johannesburg line.”

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We have been concerned about our communications with our grandchildren, especially the littlies who hardly know us. We came up with the idea of reading short stories, age-appropriate to them on video, which I download onto YouTube and then we forward the link. This idea inspired me to stock up on some children's books which we’re now reading to them. We’re enjoying the exercise; we hope not more than they do! If something interesting happens that we think it might thrill them, we videograph that and send it on. In this way, we hope they’ll not forget us.

All these little things inspire us to look closer, take note, set our minds, eyes and ears to a younger generation and have noticed we’re seeing and learning a lot too. We’re far more enquiring, and because we’re doing it for our grandchildren, people are open to sharing their knowledge, expertise, and exciting stories, which we relate in our chats. We’re also more confident in asking permission to film and record. A win-win for all of us and something I can recommend Grandparents do. Your eyes will open to so much more around you.

To illustrate my point; on one occassion Butch noticed an army of ants carting seeds across the breadth of the road. We stopped and were able to photograph this rarely seen phenomenon. The cotton ball seeds, dispersed by the wind surrounds the plants and in large patches looks like fresh snow. Karoo snow.

At night we’d sit outdoors and enjoy our supper while listening to the barking geckos, (should the bugs attracted to our lights allow it.) We've been inundated by flying insects and I have intchy welts all over my limbs.

There are numerous clearly marked hiking routes, cycling routes, short walks and long. I want to encourage everyone able to visit this beautiful underutilised park to do so.. While Butch was lighting his braai fire I did a short hike around the koppie nearest the campsite. It was exactly what I needed after a long day sitting in the truck.

Opening and closing times are a little strange, but the ladies we met work long hours, all day for 12 days and then off for two days. They live in Springbok, and the unforgiving heat must be exhausting. Plus, it’s not very busy and must be pretty tedious sometimes too. I would also down tools at exactly four, not a minute later.

The Richtersveld was calling, and we were ready to roll on to the next adventure.

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