Tranquil Transkei - Mazeppa Bay Revisited

Promises made must be kept. That’s a golden rule. Melissa, our niece, showed remarkable dedication and bravery by taking up a position as a dietician at a rural hospital in the Transkei, earning admiration and respect from us all.  

At Christmas in 2019, we solemnly promised to visit Melissa in May 2020. Despite COVID-19's disruptions, our commitment to keep that promise reinforced our trust and warmth within our family bonds.

Tafalofefe Hospital is a Provincial, government-funded hospital in the Mnquma Local Municipality area near Butterworth, Eastern Cape, in South Africa.

She made the Mazeppa Bay Hotel her home, setting up comfortable living quarters in one of the original, musty, thatched Rondavels.  

A rondavel is traditionally round or oval and is usually built with locally sourced materials. The walls are constructed from stones, branches, reeds, or thatch. The mortar may consist of sand, soil, or a mixture of these, often combined with cow dung. The floor is finished with dung to make it hard and smooth. The roofing elements of a rondavel are spars or poles taken from tree limbs, harvested and cut to length.

Thatching is sewn to the poles using grass rope. The process of completing the thatch can take as little as one weekend or up to a year if made by a skilled artisan, as it must be sewn in one section at a time, starting from the bottom and working towards the top. As sections are sewn, they weather and age to form a weatherproof seal. In recent years, bricks and mortar have also been used for construction, and corrugated iron roofs have been installed.

The Transkei is a summer-rainfall region, and this year's rainfall was particularly good. As far as the eye could see, the rolling hills, forests, gorges, riverbanks, and pastures were covered in the greenest grass. We were astounded by the vast indigenous forests and the vibrant isiXhosa culture, with rural communities of subsistence livestock farmers adding authentic local flavour to our experience.

The most beautiful cattle in the world, Nguni, indigenous to South Africa, roam freely and are often seen grazing by the roadside; it would be unusual not to spot a herd of Nguni on the beaches. These hardy animals have adapted to the climate and the often steep inclines they must traverse.

Butterworth is a vibrant, bustling town; much of the informal trade takes place on the pavements, where shoppers haggle and catch up socially. Here, traffic is slow, but it is very good for travel photography.

Nguni roam freely, as do goats, other cattle breeds, sheep, horses, and dogs, which often bring traffic to a snail’s pace. We made our 260 km trip in 7 hours: a long but enjoyable day. At last, we saw the blue horizon and knew we’d be descending to Mazeppa Bay and Melissa.

Mazeppa Bay Hotel is an institution, and holidaymakers return each year to relax, fish, swim, hike, mountain bike, or chill out. On our first holiday, the hotel was still a country inn with accommodations in rondavels, a children’s dining room, a sitting room, a dining room, a pub, and a veranda. The musty rondavels are still there, but a new double-storey wing has been added to accommodate more guests. Children now dine with their parents; the three-course dinner menu has largely remained the same, as has the English breakfast. An à la carte lunch can be enjoyed on the veranda. The hamburgers were jolly good.

Mazeppa Bay’s iconic suspension bridge is a landmark, and everyone knows it should be mentioned whenever Mazeppa Bay is mentioned. The Hotel sits, camouflaged by wild banana trees, gigantic strelitzia bushes, palm trees and other indigenous trees.

A few holidaymakers’ cottages sit adjacent to the Hotel, with long stretches of white sand: no people, and endless green Kikuyu lawns, velvety coverings over the undulating hills and dunes. Of course, you might find a herd of cattle on your way.

The owners, who “adopted” Melissa for the year, permitted us to park our Honey Badger on site. We had a splendid view of the sea, a short distance from the holiday revellers. We also had exclusive use of one of the serviced Rondawels for our ablutions. We had an unsurpassed view of spectacular sunsets.

Once again, our time was limited, just a whistle-stop. We hiked along narrow cattle paths and enjoyed the views; we sat on the veranda, catching up with Sue, my sister-in-law, who couldn't stay away, and made a coach trip to East London to visit and spend the last weeks with Melissa before both returned home. We sunbathed at the pool, dipped into the chilly waters, and walked along the beach and over the suspension bridge to the "island". Youngsters played volleyball on the beach at sunset, and dogs chased balls and stood their ground in dog fights, enjoying their freedom. We got all dressed up at night and enjoyed our meals in the dining room with the other residents.

Beach towels, flip-flops, surfboards, boogie boards, fishing rods, wetsuits, and bikinis line the walls and balustrades of the outdoor passages. Barefoot toddlers play in the sand, while young boys rev up their four-wheelers to zip to their favourite fishing spots. Gilly's still assist and cast a line.

At sunset, everyone returns suntanned, exhausted and gloriously happy—a few return with their catch of the day. When the sun sets over the dunes in the west, as the tides come in and go out, we all relax and feel the year's tensions slide off our weary shoulders.

Melissa's story isn't mine to tell; she's a remarkable young woman: brave, bright, enthusiastic, determined, ambitious, and one of my heroes. Imagine packing a few belongings and heading into an unknown world. She worked on the front lines at the hospital and saw firsthand how devastating COVID-19 was. Alone, in isolation, in a one-bedroom rondavel, she sat out our COVID restrictions without complaint. It was a privilege to spend time with her and to experience a fraction of the year she had. Only when I got there did I understand her mother's anxiety and her instinctive need to return every few months to visit her daughter. While at Talafofefi, Melissa established a playroom for the children who visit the hospital and often spend weeks there. Bravo, Melis. You're an example and an inspiration. In all her communications, I never saw or heard her spirit waver. Well done. You made a difference.

PS. We thought the land adjacent to the Hotel would be the perfect spot for Wild Camp if you're able to survive completely off-grid, making do without facilities.

PS, we had to take the long route to Mazeppa Bay. There is a shorter route from East London - cross the Kei River on the ferry, drive 10 km, and turn right at the T-junction. From there, it is a further 6 km to Qolora.

Please check with Trennerys reception to Pont/ Ferry Closing Times: